Climbing Rules

 

Table of Contents

PART 1 - GOVERNANCE

 

1. WESTERN CAPE CLIMBING                                                                                                                       5

1.1 Introduction                                                                                                                                                    5

1.2 Executive Tasks                                                                                                                                            5

1.3 Competitions                                                                                                                                                                 5

1.4 WCC Competition Officials                                                                                                                        5

 

2. MEMBER FEDERATIONS                                                                                                                            7

2.1 Introduction                                                                                                                                                    7

2.2 Responsibilities of Member Federations and Team Members                                                           7

2.3 Eligibility to enter a Team                                                                                                                           7

2.4 Registration of Competitors                                                                                                                        7

2.5 Membership Cards                                                                                                                                      7

2.6 Fees                                                                                                                                                                8

 

3. GENERAL RULES                                                                                                                                          9

3.1 Disciplines                                                                                                                                                     9

3.2 Safety                                                                                                                                                              9

3.3 The Competition Area                                                                                                                                                 9

3.4 Clothing and Equipment                                                                                                                             10

3.5 Wall Maintenance                                                                                                                                         11

3.6 Rankings and Records                                                                                                                                11

 

4. DISCIPLINARY PROCEDURES                                                                                                                  12

4.1 Introduction                                                                                                                                                    12

4.2 Competitors                                                                                                                                                   12

4.3 Team Officials                                                                                                                                               13

4.4 Other Persons                                                                                                                                               13

 

5. ANTI DOPING                                                                                                                                                  14

5.1 Adoption                                                                                                                                                         14

5.2 Application                                                                                                                                                     14

5.3 Competent Bodies within the WCC                                                                                                          14

5.4 Violations and Sanctions                                                                                                                            14

 

PART 2 - TECHNICAL RULES

 

6. LEAD                                                                                                                                                                 15

6.1 General                                                                                                                                                           15

6.2 Climbing Structure                                                                                                                                       15

6.3 Safety                                                                                                                                                              15

6.4 Scoring and Timing                                                                                                                                      16

6.5 Quota for each ROUND                                                                                                                               17

6.6 Starting Order                                                                                                                                                17

6.7 Competition Procedure                                                                                                                               18

6.8 Observation Procedure                                                                                                                               19

6.9 Climbing Procedure                                                                                                                                     19

6.10 Ranking after each round                                                                                                                         20

6.11 Technical Incidents                                                                                                                                    21

6.12 Use of Video Recording                                                                                                                            22

6.13 Appeals                                                                                                                                                        22

 

7. BOULDERING                                                                                                                                                 24

7.1 General                                                                                                                                                           24

7.2 Climbing Structure                                                                                                                                       24

7.3 Safety                                                                                                                                                              24

7.4 Scoring and Timing                                                                                                                                      25

7.5 Quota for each round                                                                                                                                   25

7.6 Starting Order                                                                                                                                                25

7.7 Competition Procedure                                                                                                                               26

7.8 Observation Procedure                                                                                                                               27

7.9 Climbing Procedure                                                                                                                                     27

7.10 Ranking after each round                                                                                                                         28

7.11 Technical Incidents                                                                                                                                    28

7.12 Use of Video Recording                                                                                                                            29

7.13 Appeals                                                                                                                                                        29

 

8. SPEED                                                                                                                                                              31

8.1 General                                                                                                                                                           31

8.2 Climbing Structure                                                                                                                                       31

8.3 Safety                                                                                                                                                              31

8.4 Timing                                                                                                                                                             32

8.5 Quota for each round                                                                                                                                   32

8.6 Starting Order                                                                                                                                                33

8.7 Competition Procedure                                                                                                                               33

8.8 Practice Procedure                                                                                                                                       33

8.9 Climbing Procedure                                                                                                                                     34

8.10 Ranking after each round                                                                                                                         35

8.11 Technical Incidents                                                                                                                                    35

8.12 Use of Video Recording                                                                                                                            36

8.13 Appeals                                                                                                                                                        36

 

9. TEAM SPEED                                                                                                                                                  45

9.1 General                                                                                                                                                           45          

9.2 Climbing Structure                                                                                                                                       45

9.3 Timing                                                                                                                                                             45

9.4 Competition Procedure                                                                                                                               45

9.5 Climbing Procedure                                                                                                                                     45

9.6 Ranking after each round                                                                                                                           47

 

10. SPEED WORLD RECORDS                                                                                                                      48

10.1 General                                                                                                                                                        48

10.2 Climbing Structure                                                                                                                                     48

10.3 Timing                                                                                                                                                          48

 

PART 3 - EVENT RULES

 

11. PROVINCIAL SERIES                                                                                                                                 49

11.1 Introduction                                                                                                                                                  49

11.2 Eligibility                                                                                                                                                       49

11.3 Format                                                                                                                                                          49

11.4 Registration of competitors                                                                                                                      49

11.5 Technical Meeting                                                                                                                                      49

11.6 Publication of Start Lists and Results                                                                                                     50

11.7 Provincial Rankings                                                                                                                                   50

11.8 Medals and Prizes                                                                                                                                     51

11.9 Ceremonies                                                                                                                                                                52

11.10 Anti-Doping Tests                                                                                                                                    52

 

12. NATIONAL COMPETITIONS                                                                                                                      53          

12.1 Introduction                                                                                                                                                  53

12.2 Eligibility                                                                                                                                                       53

12.3 Format                                                                                                                                                          53

12.4 Registration of competitors                                                                                                                      53

12.5 Technical Meeting(s)                                                                                                                                                 53

12.6 Publication of Start Lists and Results                                                                                                     53

12.7 National Rankings                                                                                                                                      54

12.8 Medals and Prizes                                                                                                                                     55

12.9 Ceremonies                                                                                                                                                                55

12.10 Anti-Doping Tests                                                                                                                                    55

 

13. NATIONAL YOUTH COMPETITIONS                                                                                                       57

13.1 Introduction                                                                                                                                                  57

13.2 Eligibility                                                                                                                                                       57

13.3 Format                                                                                                                                                          57

13.4 Registration of competitors                                                                                                                      57

13.5 Technical Meeting(s)                                                                                                                                                 58

13.6 Publication of Start Lists and Results                                                                                                     58

13.7 National Youth Rankings                                                                                                                          58

13.8 Medals and Prizes                                                                                                                                     59

13.9 Ceremonies                                                                                                                                                                59

13.10 Anti-Doping Tests                                                                                                                                    59

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. WESTERN CAPE CLIMBING

 

1.1 INTRODUCTION

1.1.1 The Western Cape Climbing (WCC) is the Provincial body responsible for all aspects of Western Cape        

         Sport Competition Climbing.

1.1.2 The WCC is the final authority for all matters concerning Western Cape Competition Climbing.

1.1.3 The WCC is recognised by the South African National Climbing Federation (SANCF) and is member of  

         the SANCF.

1.1.4 The WCC maintains authority in respect to all Western Cape climbing competitions as set out in Article

1.1.5. As such, it is responsible for:

a) Controlling all technical and other aspects of the sport;

b) Receiving applications from member clubs to organise provincial competitions;

c) Approving those applications that it deems in the interest of the sport and which it assesses as being in accordance with the WCC rules and regulations governing such competitions.

All competitions approved by the WCC shall at all times be organised, undertaken and executed in strict accordance with the rules and regulations governing such competitions.

1.1.5 The organisational structure of the WCC is described in detail in its Constitution.

 

1.2 EXECUTIVE TASKS

1.2.1 For matters concerning the organisation of Western Cape climbing competitions, the tasks of the WCC

         are as follows:

a) Receipt of all applications to organise a competition approved by the WCC;

b) Dealing with all enquiries - both of a general nature and with respect to approved competitions;

c) Issuing all information regarding competitions approved by the WCC;

d) In particular, issuing all competition information and application forms to the member clubs concerning each competition. Every member club wishing to register competitors for a competition shall send a copy of their application form to both the WCC and the organisation responsible for organising the competition. All competitors and the associated team officials shall be registered by their member club within the indicated deadlines;

e) Issuing WCC rules, regulations and other notices. Amendments may be published to these documents, which shall be read in conjunction with and shall take precedence over the original document. Each amendment shall incorporate a date of entry into force;

f) Official publication of all competition results, the Provincial and National Team Rankings, and other official information;

g) Appointment of all WCC officials to approved competitions.

 

1.3 COMPETITIONS

1.3.1 Only the members of the WCC, or organisations specifically recognised by the WCC, shall be eligible

         to apply to organise a competition approved by the WCC.

1.3.2 Only WCC members shall be eligible to apply to enter their competitors in such competitions.

1.3.3 Among the provincial climbing competitions requiring the specific approval of the WCC are the

        following:

a) Western Cape Provincial Lead Competitions (Youth and Open);

b) Western Cape Provincial Boulder Competitions (Youth and Open);

c) Western Cape Provincial Speed Climbing Competitions (Youth and Open);

 

1.4 WCC COMPETITION OFFICIALS

1.4.1 The WCC may formally appoint the following officials to each competition approved by the WCC:

Jury President

a) The Jury President has overall authority within the Competition Area (as defined in Article 3.3). This authority extends to covering the activities of the media and all persons nominated by the organiser. The overall authority of the Jury President covers all aspects of the running of the competition. The Jury President presides over all meetings of WCC officials and over organisation and technical meetings with the competition organisers, team officials and competitors. Although the Jury President does not normally have a judging role, they may at any time choose to carry out any judging task generally assigned to the WCC Judge or other judges should they deem that necessary. The Jury President is responsible for briefing all officiating Judges on the application of the WCC Rules before the start of a competition. The Jury President is required to submit a detailed report to the WCC on the competition and on each Aspirant Judge undergoing the final phase of their training programme.

WCC Judge

b) The WCC Judge is a Provincial Judge appointed by the WCC to assist the Jury President in undertaking all aspects of judging a competition. Additional WCC Judges may be appointed. The WCC may also appoint Aspirant Judges who undergo the final, practical phase of their training programme by assisting the WCC Judge in their judging duties. The WCC Judge is responsible for announcing the publication of starting and result lists, appeals, and any important changes to the competition programme.

The WCC Judge is assisted in their judging by National Judges (Route Judges or Boulder Judges) appointed by the competition organiser or the organising member federation. The main role of a National Judge is to judge the performance of the competitors on routes and boulders respectively. National Judges shall be persons holding an international or a national licence. The National Judges shall be fully informed of the technical rules and regulations governing competitions approved by the WCC, and shall be instructed in their duties by, and work under the direction of, the WCC Judge.

Chief Route-Setter

c) The Chief Route-Setter consults with the members of the route setting team appointed by the organiser prior to the event to plan and co-ordinate all matters of route setting and route maintenance, including the design of each route or boulder; the installation of holds, protection points and other equipment in accordance with WCC regulations; repair and cleaning of routes and boulders; and the design, installation and maintenance of Warm-Up facilities. The Chief Route-Setter is responsible for checking the technical standard and safety of each route or boulder, advises the Jury President on all technical matters within the competition area, assists in compiling the route sketch of lead routes, and advises the judges on the positioning of video cameras. The Chief Route-Setter is required to submit a report to the WCC on the competition and a report on each Aspirant Chief Route-Setter undergoing the final phase of their training programme.

WCC Delegate

d) The WCC Delegate deals with all WCC-related organisational matters during the running of the competition. The WCC Delegate has the authority to ensure that the facilities and services provided by the competition organiser (such as registration of competitors and others; scoring and results service; and medical, media and other facilities) are in accordance with WCC Regulations. The WCC Delegate is a member of the Appeals Jury, and has the right to attend all meetings with the competition organisers, and take part in an advisory capacity in meetings of the Competition Jury. In the absence of the Jury President and before their arrival at a competition, the WCC Delegate acts on their behalf in respect to the organisation of the competition within the Competition Area. Under exceptional circumstances, the WCC Delegate has the authority to decide to apply emergency measures, for instance an adjustment of the competition format. These measures are specified separately by the WCC. The WCC Delegate shall submit a detailed report on the competition to the WCC. For competitions where a WCC Delegate has not been appointed or in case of absence of the WCC Delegate, the Jury President will take over the duties of the WCC Delegate.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. MEMBER CLUBS

 

2.1 INTRODUCTION

2.1.1 The WCC fully respects the autonomy of its member clubs in respect to their activities.

 

2.2 RESPONSIBILITIES OF MEMBER CLUBS AND TEAM MEMBERS

2.2.1 It is the obligation of member clubs, all competition organisers and those associated with a competition

approved by the WCC, whether working directly with the WCC or in association with a member club or  with a competition organiser, to:

a) Unconditionally accept that the promotion, development and administration of the sport of provincial competition climbing are under the exclusive control of the WCC;

b) Ensure that no financial or other agreement shall be entered into with an organisation (e.g. television, competition sponsors, etc.), which may conflict with the WCC's own agreements, without written approval of the WCC;

c) At all times seek the advice and agreement of the WCC in respect to any decision that might conflict with the best interest of the sport.

2.2.2 It is the responsibility of the member clubs of the WCC to:

a) Administer, promote and actively develop the sport in their province and firmly uphold the principles of the SANCF and the WCC rules and regulations governing the sport of competition climbing;

b) Understand and abide by the rules and regulations of the sport and promote and ensure that their competitors and officials observe the principles of good sportsmanship;

c) Constantly and actively work against the use of drugs or other prohibited substances by their competitors and officials, and follow all rules and guidelines in order to guarantee out-of competitions tests, when requested;

d) Prohibit any methods or practices that might involve risks to the health or physical development of their competitors;

e) Undertake to set them firmly against any temptation to manipulate the rules and regulations to the advantage of their competitors and team officials;

f) Ensure that their competitors and officials treat all other competitors, officials and others involved in the practice of the sport with full and due respect at all times, both during competitions and in the course of any non-competition activity.

2.2.3 It is the responsibility of all team officials and competitors to ensure that they are fully informed of all

        details relating to a competition.

 

2.3 ELIGIBILITY TO ENTER A TEAM

2.3.1 Each member club of the WCC shall be eligible to enter a team of male and female competitors

         subject to the following conditions:

a) That they are in compliance with the regulations governing the nomination and registration of competitors;

b) That they are not in default of any regulation governing financial obligations to the WCC;

c) That they are not in default of any decision, or subsequent required action, in respect to a decision under the WCC disciplinary procedures;

d) That all competitors registered hold a valid SANCF and WCC Membership Card, or an application for such a Membership card has been received by the WCC.

 

2.4 REGISTRATION OF COMPETITORS

2.4.1 Each member club shall respect deadlines for the registration of competitors stated in the competition

         information sheets published by the WCC.

2.4.2 Registration fees for registered competitors who do not take part in the event concerned will be

         charged to the member club unless the WCC has been informed ten (10) days prior to the event.

 

2.5 MEMBERSHIP CARDS

2.5.1 Each member club shall ensure that each competitor registered for a competition approved by the

WCC holds a current SANCF and WCC Membership Card, or that an application for such a Membership Card has been received by the WCC.

2.5.2 In order to obtain a Membership Card, each club shall submit for each competitor:

a) A completed official application form;

b) The fee specified by the WCC for the issue of a new Membership Card.

2.5.3 Each Membership Card is valid for one financial year; i.e. from the 1st of March to the last day of

February. Each club may, on behalf of its competitors, renew the Membership Card each year by completing the official application form and sending it to the WCC.

2.5.4 Each competitor shall be a member of a member club of the province in which they reside. Mid-season

         change of teams is not allowed.

 

2.6 FEES

2.6.1 All fees (e.g. membership fees, competition entry fees, appeals fees, etc.) and all other expenses are

         the sole responsibility of the member clubs.

2.6.2 A member club shall pay the WCC the amount invoiced for fees before the date specified in the

         correspondence. Failure to do so shall be dealt with as set out in Article 2.6.4.

2.6.3 Appeals fees are paid directly to the WCC Delegate when an appeal is filed. The appeal shall not be

         considered until the appeals fee has been received.

2.6.4 A member club that is in default of WCC regulations governing payment of fees shall, in accordance   

with the regulations and bylaws, be liable to have its membership suspended and, ultimately, withdrawn.

2.6.5 The scale of all fees shall be decided and published annually by the WCC.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3. GENERAL RULES

 

3.1 DISCIPLINES

3.1.1 Western Cape Competition Climbing includes the following Disciplines:

a) Lead: Climbs (‘Routes’) are climbed with the competitor clipping into protection points as they climb (on “Lead”). Progression along the line of the route determines a competitor's ranking.

b) Bouldering: Short climbs (‘Boulders’) are attempted without ropes but with landing mats for protection. The number of boulders completed determines a competitor's ranking.

c) Speed: Climbs are attempted with an in-situ rope (on “Top-Rope”). The time to complete the route determines a competitor's ranking.

 

3.2 SAFETY

Responsibilities

3.2.1 The competition organiser shall be responsible for maintaining safety within the Competition Area and

in the public section of the arena, and in relation to all activities connected to the running of the competition.

3.2.2 Each competitor shall be regarded as entirely and solely responsible for the equipment and clothing

         that they intend to wear during their attempt(s).

3.2.3 The Jury President, in consultation with the Chief Route-Setter, shall have the authority to take

decisions in respect to any question of safety within the competition area, including declining to give permission to start or continue any part of the competition. Any official or other person deemed by the Jury President to have infringed, or being likely to infringe, on safety procedures shall be subject to removal from their duties and/or dismissal from the competition area.

Equipment

3.2.4 Any technical equipment used in Western Cape Climbing Competitions must meet the relevant EN

Standard (or comparable International equivalent) unless otherwise specified by the WCC or, in exceptional circumstances, by the Jury President through the authority delegated to them by the WCC.

The relevant standards as at the date of issue for these Rules are:

Applicable Standards for technical equipment used in Western Cape Competition Climbing Equipment CEN Standard

Belay Devices (Locking) EN15151-1 (Draft)

Belay Devices (Manual) EN15151-2 (Draft)

Climbing Harness EN12277:2007 (Type C)

Climbing Holds EN12572-3:2008

Climbing Rope EN892:2004

Climbing Structures EN12572-1:2008, EN12572-2:2008

Karabiners (Screwgate) EN12275:1998 (Type H)

Karabiners (Self-Locking) EN12275:1998 (Type H)

Quickdraw/ Tape Slings EN566:2007

Quickdraw/ Connector (Karabiner) EN12275:1998 (Type B, Type D)

Quickdraw/ Connector (Maillon Rapide) EN12275:1998 (Type Q)

Medical Personnel

3.2.5 The Jury President shall verify that a medical doctor (the Competition Doctor) is in attendance to

ensure a rapid response to any accident or injury to a competitor or official working inside the competition area. The Competition Doctor shall be present from the scheduled opening of the Isolation Zone/Warm-Up Area until the end of the attempt of the last competitor in any round of the competition.

3.2.6 If to the Jury President believes that a competitor is unfit to compete for any reason, such as injury or

illness, then the Jury President has the authority to request a check-up of the competitor by the Competition Doctor who will proceed with the following physical test:

a) Lower extremity: the competitor shall be able to do five consecutive single-leg jumps with each leg.

b) Upper extremity: the competitor shall be able to perform five consecutive push-ups using both arms.

The Jury President shall stop the competitor from competing if, following the results of this test, the Competition Doctor is of the opinion that the competitor is unfit to compete. Should there later be evidence that the competitor has recovered, then they may request to undergo the relevant physical tests again. The Jury President shall allow the competitor to compete if, following the results of such tests, the Competition Doctor is of the opinion that the competitor is fit to compete.

3.2.7 Under no circumstances shall special provisions be made at the request of any competitor, e.g.

        descent to the ground from the top of a boulder by a ladder.

 

3.3 THE COMPETITION AREA

General

3.3.1 The Competition Area includes:

a) Any Isolation Zone/Warm-Up Area;

b) Any Transit Zone(s)

c) Any Call Zone(s); and

d) One or more Competition Zones, which shall all be demarcated from any area open to the public.

3.3.2 The Competition Zone includes the climbing wall(s), the area immediately in front of and next to the

climbing wall(s), and any other area assigned specifically for the safe and fair conduct of a competition, such as additional areas needed for video recording or playback.

3.3.3 Smoking is allowed only in specially designated areas, normally the area immediately outside the door

to the Isolation Zone/Warm-Up area but never in or near the Call Zone or the Competition Zone. Any designated smoking area shall be treated as part of the Isolation Zone for the purposes of any Isolation Rules in force.

3.3.4 No competitor or Team Official is permitted to carry or use any electronic communication equipment

         while in the Competition Area unless the Jury President has permitted such equipment.

Access to the Competition Area

3.3.5 Only the persons specified below shall be permitted to enter the Competition Area:

a) WCC officials;

b) Organiser's officials;

c) Competitors eligible to take part in the current round of the competition (as directed by or on behalf of the Jury President);

d) Authorised Team Officials (the Isolation Zone/Warm-Up area only);

e) Other persons specifically authorised by the Jury President. Such persons shall, throughout their stay in the Competition Area, be escorted and supervised by an approved official to ensure the maintenance of security of the Competition Area and prevent any undue distraction of, or interference with, any competitor,

3.3.6 Animals shall not be allowed in the Competition Area. Exceptions from this rule can be authorised by

         the Jury President.

3.3.7 Failure to comply with these rules shall result in disciplinary action in accordance with Section 4  

        (Disciplinary Procedures).

 

3.4 CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT

3.4.1 All equipment used by a competitor shall comply with the relevant standards set out in Article 3.2.4

unless otherwise specified by the WCC. Use of non-approved, or non-approved modification of, equipment, knots and clothing, or any non-compliance with the advertising rules, or any infringement of any part of WCC rules and regulations governing team clothing and equipment, shall make the competitor liable for disciplinary action in accordance with Section 4 (Disciplinary Procedures).

3.4.2 Competitors representing their teams shall, when climbing, wear a uniform official team top which shall

         contain

a) A representation of the member club flag or the colours of the member club flag or the member club sports colour, and

b) The Western Cape Climbing logo.

         The team top may be different for male and female competitors.

3.4.3 The official starting number bib provided by the competition organiser, which may not be cut or

otherwise modified, shall be displayed prominently on the back of the top. The competition organiser may provide additional starting number bibs to be placed on the competitor’s trouser leg.

3.4.4 Each competitor is free to use a chalk bag, a climbing helmet, and the clothing (in addition to the team

         top) they prefer. All equipment and clothing shall be in compliance with the following advertising rules:

a) Headwear: Only the manufacturer's name and/or logo;

b) Team top: Sponsors’ labels – no larger than 300 square centimetres in total;

c) Harness: The manufacturer's name and/or logo and sponsors’ labels - no larger than 200 square centimetres in total;

d) Chalk bag: The manufacturer's name and/or logo and sponsors' labels - no larger than 100 square centimetres in total;

e) Legs: The manufacturer's name and/or logo and sponsors’ labels - no larger than 300 square centimetres in total on each leg;

f) Shoes and socks: Only the manufacturer's name and/or logo.

Phrases and logos denoting the club and/or the province to which the competitor belongs are allowed on all the above items, in addition to the specified size limits.

Any advertising name or logo placed directly on a competitor’s body, e.g. a tattoo, shall be counted within the size limits specified for the respective part of the body above.

3.4.5 During their attempt on a route or a boulder, competitors are only allowed to use chalk (dry or liquid)

         for their hands.

3.4.6 Whenever possible, and particularly at award ceremonies, competitors and team officials must

         endeavour to wear a distinctive team uniform.

3.4.7 Failure to comply with these rules shall result in disciplinary action in accordance with Section 4

        (Disciplinary Procedures).

 

3.5 WALL MAINTENANCE

3.5.1 The Chief Route-Setter shall verify that an experienced maintenance team is available throughout

each round of the competition in order to perform any maintenance and repairs ordered by the WCC Judge in an efficient and safe manner. Safety procedures shall be strictly enforced.

3.5.2 On the instruction of the WCC Judge, the Chief Route-Setter shall immediately arrange for any repair

work. On completion of a repair, it shall be inspected by the Chief Route-Setter who shall advise the Jury President whether the repair results in any unfair advantage or disadvantage to the following competitors. The decision of the Jury President to continue, or to stop and re-start, that round of the competition shall be final, and no appeal shall be accepted in respect to this decision.

 

3.6 RANKINGS AND RECORDS

3.6.1 The WCC publishes the following consolidated rankings:

a) National Rankings;

b) Provincial Rankings,

The Rankings are prepared on the basis of results achieved by competitors in all competitions approved by the WCC and SANCF and counting for the ranking during the previous twelve (12) months.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4. DISCIPLINARY PROCEDURES

 

4.1 INTRODUCTION

4.1.1 The Jury President has the overall authority over all activities and decisions affecting the competition

         within the Competition Area.

 

4.2 COMPETITORS

General

4.2.1 Both the Jury President and the WCC Judge shall be authorised to take the following actions in

respect to infringements of the competition rules and with regard to matters of indiscipline by any competitor:

a) An informal, verbal warning;

b) An official warning accompanied by the showing of a Yellow Card.

4.2.2 At the earliest convenient time after issuing a Yellow or Red Card, the Jury President shall:

a) Submit a written statement to the competitor's team manager (or in the absence of a team manager, to the competitor concerned) regarding the offence and whether the Jury President proposes to refer the matter for consideration in respect to further disciplinary action in accordance with the rules;

b) Submit a copy of this written statement together with a detailed report of the offence against the rules, any evidence, and any recommendations regarding consideration of additional sanction to the WCC for referral to the WCC Disciplinary Commission.

Yellow Card warnings

4.2.3 A Yellow Card warning in accordance with Article 4.2.1b) above may be issued for any of the following

        infringements of the rules:

       Regarding instructions from the Jury President or the WCC Judge:

a) Failure to obey any instruction by the Jury President or the WCC Judge, such as:

i) Undue delay in returning to the Isolation Zone/Warm-Up Area following the instruction of the WCC Judge or the Jury President;

ii) Undue delay in leaving the Call Zone and entering the Competition Zone when instructed to do so;

iii) Failure to start in accordance with the WCC Judge’s instruction.

       Regarding equipment and ceremonies:

b) Failure to comply with the rules and regulations governing equipment and clothing;

c) Failure to wear the starting number bib provided by the competition organiser;

d) Non-participation of competitors in the opening ceremony; or

e) Non-participation of the top 3 finalists in the award ceremony;

       Regarding conduct:

f) Use of obscene or abusive language or behaviour of a relatively mild nature; or

g) Unsporting behaviour of a relatively minor nature.

Appeals against such decisions shall follow the procedure specified in the relevant Section of Part 2 to these Rules.

4.2.4 The issue of two (2) Yellow Cards to the same competitor in one competition shall result in the

         disqualification of the competitor from that competition.

4.2.5 The issue of three (3) Yellow Cards to the same competitor in the same season will result in one of the

         following:

a) If the competitor is already registered for the next WCC competition counting for the National Ranking, then the competitor will not be eligible to enter this competition;

b) If a) is not applicable, then the competitor is ineligible for registration in the next WCC competition counting for the National Ranking, in the same discipline the third Yellow Card was issued.

Disqualification

4.2.6 The Jury President alone shall be authorised to disqualify a competitor from a competition. The

         disqualification shall be accompanied by the showing of a Red Card.

4.2.7 The following infringements of the rules shall result in issuing of a Red Card and the immediate

         disqualification of the competitor from the competition without further sanction:

a) Observing the routes from outside the permitted Observation Zone when any Isolation Rules are in force;

b) The use of non-approved equipment;

c) Unauthorised use of any means of communication while in the Isolation Zone or in other restricted area.

Appeals against such decisions shall follow the procedure specified in the relevant Section of Part 2 to these Rules.

4.2.8 The following infringements of the rules shall result in the issuing of a Red Card and the immediate

disqualification of the competitor from the competition, with referral to the WCC Disciplinary Commission:

Infringements committed in the competition area by a competitor or team member:

a) Gathering information regarding a route which the competitor is to attempt beyond that which is permitted by the competition rules;

b) Gathering and/or communicating information to other competitors beyond that which is permitted by the competition rules;

c) Distracting or interfering with any competitor who is preparing for or is attempting a route;

d) Failing to comply with the instructions of the judges or organisers or WCC officials;

e) Refusing to conform to the advertising regulations governing clothing and equipment;

f) Unsporting behaviour or other serious disturbance during a competition; or

g) Abusive, threatening or violent behaviour to WCC officials, organisers, team members (including competitors) or to any other person.

Infringements committed outside the competition area but in the public arena or at the competition venue or at any accommodation or facilities used in connection with the competition by a competitor or team member:

h) Serious unsporting behaviour or other serious disturbance; or

i) Abusive, threatening or violent behaviour to WCC officials, organisers, team members (including competitors) or to any other person.

The proceedings followed in the case of referral to the WCC Disciplinary Commission are issued separately in the WCC Disciplinary and Appeal Rules.

 

4.3 TEAM OFFICIALS

4.3.1 Team officials shall be regarded in the same manner as competitors and shall be treated accordingly.

 

4.4 OTHER PERSONS

4.4.1 The Jury President is authorised to demand the immediate dismissal from the Competition Area, of

any person in contravention of the rules and, if necessary, suspend all competition activities until this demand has been complied with.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5. ANTI DOPING

 

5.1 ADOPTION

5.1.1 The WCC has adopted the World Anti-Doping Code (the “Code”).

 

5.2 APPLICATION

5.2.1 The Code applies to all competitions that are organised under the authority of the WCC. Any person

who enters, prepares for or participates in any manner as competitor, coach, trainer, official, medical or para-medical personnel in such competitions is deemed to have agreed to comply with and be subject to the Code and Article 5.4.1 of these rules.

 

5.3 COMPETENT BODIES WITHIN THE WCC

5.3.1 The competent bodies within the WCC for the application of the Code for International Competition  

         Climbing are the Anti-Doping and the Disciplinary Commissions.

 

5.4 VIOLATIONS AND SANCTIONS

5.4.1 Doping violations will be dealt with in accordance with the WCC Anti-Doping Policy and Procedure,

         and the WCC Disciplinary and Appeal Rules.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6. LEAD

 

6.1 GENERAL

6.1.1 Lead competitions shall take place on purpose-designed, artificial climbing walls having a minimum

         height of 12 metres.

6.1.2 Lead competitions shall normally consist of:

a) A Qualification round of two (2) non-identical routes for each Starting Group and Category. Both routes shall have a similar grade and character.

b) A Semi-Final round on a single route for each Category; and

c) A Final round on a single route for each Category;

In the case of unforeseen events, the Jury President may decide to cancel one of the rounds in which case the results of the previous round shall count as the ranking of the cancelled round.

 

6.2 CLIMBING STRUCTURE

6.2.1 The climbing structure and climbing holds shall comply with the Applicable Standards set out in

         Section 3 (General Rules).

6.2.2 The climbing surface shall permit routes to be constructed with a minimum length of 15 metres and a

minimum width of three (3) metres for each route. At the discretion of the Jury President, a width of  less than three (3) metres may be accepted for limited sections of the wall

Design of routes

6.2.3 If the Qualification round is to take place with two sets of Qualification routes and two Starting Groups,

then each set of routes shall be constructed with similar character (profile and style) and each set shall have similar overall difficulty.

 

6.3 SAFETY

6.3.1 All technical equipment used in Lead competitions shall meet the requirements of the relevant

        Applicable Standard set out in Section 3 (General Rules).

6.3.2 All routes shall be climbed with the competitor belayed from below, securing themselves by clipping

the rope to protection points during their attempt on the route using a climbing rope meeting the requirements of the Applicable Standard for single ropes. The WCC Judge shall decide the frequency with which the rope is changed.

6.3.3 Each route shall be designed:

a) So as to avoid the danger of a competitor's fall injuring the competitor, or injuring or obstructing any other competitor or third party;

b) Without any downward jumps.

6.3.4 The WCC Judge may decide, in consultation with the Chief Route-Setter and with the approval of the

         Jury President:

a) To have the climbing rope pre-fixed to the first (and, where deemed appropriate, other) protection points; and

b) To have a belay assistant at the beginning of the route to provide additional security for a competitor (i.e. to “spot”) on the lower part of the route, however in each case, wherever possible the design of the route shall be such as to make such precautions unnecessary.

Protection Points

6.3.5 Each protection point (including the last point) on a route shall be equipped with a quickdraw, which

         shall comprise:

a) An approved and properly closed 8 mm or 10 mm Maillon Rapide;

b) A continuous, machine sewn sling of appropriate length (as determined by the Chief Route-Setter); and

c) A karabiner into which a competitor can clip the rope when climbing. The orientation of the karabiner shall be so as to minimise the possibility of cross loading.

6.3.6 Use of the following techniques is expressly forbidden:

a) Any shortening or adjustment of the length of a sling by means of knots.

b) Any chaining of quickdraws;

c) Any use of knotted rope or knotted tape slings.

Personal Equipment

6.3.7 Each competitor shall wear a climbing harness. The Jury President shall not permit a competitor to

         start if they reasonably believe that a competitor’s harness is unsafe.

6.3.8 The climbing rope shall be connected to the competitor’s harness by a “figure of eight” knot, secured

         with a “stopper” knot.

6.3.9 Competitors are not permitted to carry or use any audio listening equipment during observation and

         whilst climbing.

Safety Checks

6.3.10 The Jury President, the WCC Judge and the Chief Route-Setter shall inspect each route prior to the

           start of each round of a competition in order to ensure the maintenance of safety standards.

6.3.11 The Jury President shall confirm that all belay devices used in the competition satisfy the

           requirements of Article 6.3.13.

6.3.12 Prior to any attempt on a route, the belayer shall check that:

a) The competitor’s harness is properly fastened;

b) The climbing rope is connected to the competitor’s harness in accordance with Article 6.3.8; and

c) The climbing rope is coiled or arranged in such a manner that it is ready for immediate and proper use.

Belaying

6.3.13 The climbing rope shall be controlled from the ground by one (1) belayer, preferably assisted by a

second person. The belayer must use a Manual Belay Device and shall at all times during a competitor's attempt on a route, pay careful attention to the progress of the competitor to ensure that:

a) A competitor’s movements are not hindered in any way by the rope being either too tight or too loose;

b) When the competitor attempts to connect the rope to any protection point, they are not hindered in doing so or, if the clipping of the rope to the protection point fails, any excessive slack in the rope is immediately taken in;

c) All falls are stopped in a dynamic and safe manner;

d) No excessive fall shall be experienced by a competitor being belayed; and

e) A falling competitor shall not be exposed to any danger of injury caused by the edge of an overlapping section or any other feature of the climbing wall in the arrest of any fall.

6.3.14 The belayer shall leave an appropriate amount of slack in the climbing rope at all times. Any tension

on the climbing rope may be deemed as an artificial aid or hindrance to a competitor and a Technical Incident shall be declared by the WCC Judge.

6.3.15 Belayers appointed by the organisers shall be trained to belay in a manner suitable for Lead

competitions. The WCC Judge is authorised to instruct the organisers to replace any belayer at any time during a competition. If replaced, the belayer shall not be permitted to play any further part in the belaying of any competitor at that competition.

6.3.16 After having connected the rope to the final quickdraw or after a fall, the belayer shall lower the

competitor to the ground taking care to ensure that the competitor does not come into contact with any ground-based equipment.

6.3.17 While the competitor is untying the rope from their harness, the belayer shall pull the rope down in as

fast a manner as possible without unduly disturbing the quickdraws. It is the responsibility of the belayer to ensure that the competitor vacates the Climbing Zone as quickly as possible.

 

6.4 SCORING AND TIMING

6.4.1 The jury for each route shall be a Route Judge, who shall be at least a Provincial Judge.

Scoring

6.4.2 On each route, competitors shall be scored as follows:

a) Any competitor who has successfully completed the route in accordance with Article 6.9.2 shall be scored as such by indicating “TOP”;

b) In respect of any competitor who has fallen or had their attempt on the route terminated, the furthest hold held or used in the line of the route shall determine the competitor’s score, as set out in Articles 6.4.3 to 6.4.5.

6.4.3 For the purposes of scoring:

a) Each hold shall be deemed as such either:

i) By the Chief Route-Setter before the start of a round of the competition; or

ii) Following positive use by a competitor,

and shall be marked on the route sketch used by the Route Judge(s), numbered in sequential order along the line of the route, as defined by the Chief Route-Setter.

b) Only holds used by the hands shall be considered.

c) Only such parts of an object that are usable for climbing shall be considered.

Note: If a competitor touches a point where there are no holds (as determined by the Chief Route-

Setter), then this point shall not be considered when determining the competitor’s score.

6.4.4 As determined by the WCC Judge:

a) A hold shall be considered as “controlled” where a competitor has made use of the hold to achieve a stable or controlled position. The score of a competitor controlling a hold shall be the number assigned to that hold on the route sketch without any suffix;

b) A hold from which a competitor has made a controlled climbing movement in the interest of progressing along the route shall be considered as “used”. The score of a competitor using a hold shall be the number assigned to that hold on the route sketch with a plus (+) suffix. This score is better than the score for controlling the same hold.

Note: A controlled climbing movement may be either “static” or “dynamicin nature and in general will be evidenced by:

i) A significant change in position of the competitor's centre of mass; and

ii) The movement of at least one hand in order to reach either (a) the next hold along the line of the route; or (b) any hold that has been successfully controlled by another competitor from the hold from which the climbing movement has been made.

6.4.5 It is at the WCC Judge’s discretion to set the limit between “controlled” and “used” for each hold in

         order to separate competitors with markedly different performance.

Timing

6.4.6 The climbing time for each competitor is the period between the start and completion of the

         competitor’s attempt on a route.

6.4.7 The climbing time for each competitor shall be measured using a manually operated electronic timer

         with digital readouts (a “stopwatch”).

6.4.8 At least one (1) Route Judge shall act as an official Timekeeper on each route and shall record the

time for each competitor. Each Timekeeper shall act independently and without showing their watch to, or discussing their time with, any other person. Unless the time is an exact second, times shall be read and recorded to the next lower second (i.e. rounded down).

6.4.9 The climbing time for each competitor is recorded as the time between:

a) His start in accordance with Article 6.9.1; and

b) When he has either:

i) Clipped the final quickdraw of the route in accordance with Article 6.9.2; or

ii) Fallen,

and in each case unless the calculated climbing time is an exact second, times shall be recorded to the next lower second (i.e. rounded down).

 

6.5 QUOTA FOR EACH ROUND

6.5.1 The quota of competitors qualifying for the Semi-Final and Final round shall be 26 and eight (8)

         competitors respectively.

6.5.2 If the Qualification round takes place with two Starting Groups, the quota for the next round shall be

         divided equally and applied to both groups. i.e. thirteen (13) per group.

6.5.3 The quota for the Semi-Final and Final round shall be filled with the highest ranked competitors from

the previous round If the quota is exceeded as a result of tied competitors, all tied competitors shall qualify for the next round of the competition.

 

6.6 STARTING ORDER

Qualification

6.6.1 If the Qualification round takes place with two Starting Groups, competitors shall be allocated to one or

         other Starting Group as follows:

a) First, any competitors having a Provincial Ranking for Lead on the day of the Technical Meeting (a Current Provincial Ranking) shall be allocated to a Starting Group in the manner shown in the following example:

Relative Current Provincial Ranking

Starting Group A                                 Starting Group B

1st                                                                                                                  2nd

4th                                                                                                                  3rd

5th                                                                                                                  6th

8th                                                                                                                  7th

9th                                                                                                                  10th

etc… etc…

b) Second, any un-ranked competitors shall be allocated to one or other Starting Groups by means of random selection such that an equal, or as close to equal as possible, number of competitors are allocated to each Starting Group.

6.6.2 The starting order of the Qualification round within each Starting Group shall be as follows:

a) The starting order for the first Qualification route shall be randomized.

b) The starting order for the second Qualification route shall be in the same order of the first route but with a stagger of 50%.

Example: When 21 competitors are in a category then the one who is scheduled to start 1st on Lane A will start 11th on Lane B.

Semi-Final and Final

6.6.3 The starting order for the Semi-Final and Final rounds shall be the reverse of the ranking order from

the previous round, i.e. the highest ranked competitor shall start last. In the case of tied competitors from a previous round, the starting order between them shall be:

a) Where the tied competitors each have a Current Provincial Ranking, in descending order of their

Current Provincial Ranking (i.e. highest ranked starts last);

b) Where the tied competitors are each unranked or have the same Current Provincial Ranking, randomised; and

c) Where competitors(s) having a Current Provincial Ranking and unranked competitor(s) are tied, the unranked competitor shall start first.

 

6.7 COMPETITION PROCEDURE

General

6.7.1 Where the consecutive rounds of a Lead competition take place on the same day, there shall be a

minimum time gap of two (2) hours between the time when the last competitor finishes the first round and the closing of the Isolation Zone for the following round.

Isolation Rules

6.7.2 Articles 6.7.3 to 6.7.6 (the Isolation Rules) shall apply only to the Semi-Final and Final rounds of

         Lead competitions.

6.7.3 Once the closing time for the Isolation Zone has passed, Competitors and/or Team Officials must

         remain within the Isolation Zone unless otherwise instructed.

Note: Competitors/Team Officials or other persons authorised by the Jury President to enter the Isolation Zone may choose to leave the Isolation Zone at any time, but having left the Isolation Zone they may not then return once the closing time has passed, and must leave the Competition Area, unless specifically authorised to remain by the Jury President.

6.7.4 The Isolation Zone closing time for any round of the competition shall not be earlier than one (1) hour

before the competitor first on the starting list is scheduled to commence climbing or in the case of the final round, the time scheduled for the presentation of the finalists.

Note: Competitors may view routes visible from outside the Competition Area at any time prior to the closing time for the Isolation Zone.

6.7.5 When the Isolation Rules apply, competitors shall have no knowledge of the routes other than that

obtained during the official observation period or that communicated to them by the Jury President or the judges. It is the sole responsibility of each competitor to fully inform themselves with respect to all instructions regarding the routes. For the avoidance of doubt:

a) Whilst in the Competition Area, competitors are not permitted to seek any information from persons outside the Competition Area, unless specifically authorised to do so by the Jury President;

b) Competitors who have completed their attempt(s) on a route and who for any reason remain in the Competition Area must not pass any information concerning that route to any competitor who has not yet attempted that route.

6.7.6 Failure to comply with the Isolation Rules when in force shall result in disciplinary action in accordance

         with Section 4 (Disciplinary Procedures).

Preparation prior to Climbing

6.7.7 After having received an official instruction to leave the Isolation Zone/Warm-Up Area and proceed to

         the Call Zone, competitors shall not be accompanied by any person other than authorised officials.

6.7.8 On arrival in the Call Zone, each competitor shall make all final preparations for their attempt, such as

         putting on their climbing shoes, tying on to the rope etc., as relevant to the type of competition.

6.7.9 Each competitor shall be ready to leave the Call Zone and enter the Competition Zone when instructed

to do so. Any undue delay in this regard may result in the issuing of a Yellow Card. Any further delay shall result in disqualification in accordance with Section 4 (Disciplinary Procedures).

Cleaning

6.7.10 The holds on each route shall be cleaned at a frequency determined by the WCC Judge in

consultation with the Chief Route-Setter. The maximum number of attempts made before a route is cleaned shall be twenty (20), and the cleaning operations should be evenly distributed during the round. The frequency and duration of the cleaning shall be announced and indicated on the starting list published in the Isolation Zone. Competitors are not allowed to clean any hold on the route during their attempt.

Qualification

6.7.11 The Qualification round for each Category shall normally take place on two (2) non-identical routes

with all competitors in one (1) Starting Group. The Qualification round may also take place on two sets of Qualification routes, each set comprising two (2) routes, with competitors divided into two (2) Starting Groups.

6.7.12 Other than for supplementary attempts required following an Appeal or Technical Incident, each

           competitor shall make one (1) attempt on each of the two (2) routes for their Starting Group.

6.7.13 The fixed length of the climbing period in the Qualification round shall be six (6) minutes for each

           route.

6.7.14 The starting order for the Qualification routes set out in Article 6.6.2 shall be used when the routes

are climbed simultaneously and also when the routes are climbed one after the other. In each case, competitors shall be guaranteed a minimum resting time of 50 minutes between the end of their attempt on the first route and the start of their attempt on the second route.

Semi-Final and Final

6.7.15 The Semi-Final and Final rounds shall take place on one (1) route for each Category. Both

Categories shall normally compete simultaneously in each round or, in the case of the Final round, alternating competitors from each Category.

e.g. When alternating, competitors would attempt the Final route in the following sequence: First: The competitor ranked 8th in Category A, Second: The competitor ranked 8th in Category B, Third: The competitor ranked 7th in Category A, and so on...

6.7.16 The Final round shall be preceded by a presentation of the competitors eligible to participate in the

           round.

6.7.17 Other than for supplementary attempts required following an Appeal or Technical Incident, each

competitor eligible to compete in the Semi-Final/Final round shall make one attempt on the route for their Category in that round.

6.7.18 The fixed length of the climbing period in the Semi-Final and Final rounds shall be eight (8) minutes

           for each route.

6.7.19 The starting order in the Semi-Final and Final rounds shall be calculated as set out in Article 6.6.3

 

6.8 OBSERVATION PROCEDURE

General

6.8.1 Each competitor shall be allowed a final observation period of 40 seconds from the time at which the

competitor leaves the Call Zone. This final observation period shall not be part of the fixed climbing time for the route and shall be additional to any collective observation period in respect of the Qualification, Semi-Final or Final rounds. If the competitor has not started their attempt at the end of this final observation period they shall be instructed to start immediately. Any further delay shall make the competitor liable to disciplinary action in accordance with Section 4 (Disciplinary Procedures).

Semi-Final and Final

6.8.2 A collective observation period shall be held immediately prior to the commencement of the round. The

observation period shall be decided by the Jury President in consultation with the Chief Route-Setter and shall normally not exceed six (6) minutes for each route. In the case of unusually long routes, the period may be extended.

6.8.3 Team Officials shall not be permitted to accompany the competitors during the observation period.

While in the observation area, all competitors remain under the Isolation Rules. Competitors shall remain within the designated observation area during the observation period. Competitors are not permitted to climb on the climbing wall or stand on any equipment or furniture. They may seek clarification only from judges.

6.8.4 Competitors are allowed to touch the first hold(s), without leaving the ground with both their feet.

Competitors may use binoculars to observe the route, and make hand-drawn sketches and notes. No other observation or recording equipment shall be permitted

6.8.5 At the end of the observation period, competitors shall immediately return to the Isolation Zone or, in

         the case of the first few competitors on the starting list, to the Call Zone as instructed by the judges.

         Any undue delay in doing so may result in the award of a Yellow Card; any further delay shall result in     

         disqualification in accordance with Section 4 (Disciplinary Procedures).

 

6.9 CLIMBING PROCEDURE

The Start

6.9.1 An attempt shall be deemed to have started, and measurement of the climbing time shall start, when

         every part of the competitor’s body has left the ground.

Completion of Attempt

6.9.2 An attempt on a route shall be considered successful if the route has been climbed in accordance with

these rules and if the rope has been clipped into the karabiner on the final quickdraw of the route within the fixed time period for attempts defined in Articles 6.7.13 and 6.7.18.

6.9.3 During an attempt on a route:

a) The competitor must clip the quickdraws in sequence.

Note: Clipping the first quickdraw from the ground is permitted.

Note: A competitor shall be allowed to un-clip and re-clip the last clipped karabiner.

b) The competitor must remain in a legitimate position at all times. Subject to Article 6.9.4, this will be the case if:

i) The competitor’s entire body has not moved beyond the karabiner at the lower end of the next unclipped quickdraw; or

ii) The competitor is able to touch the next unclipped quickdraw with a hand (without it being necessary to haul up the quickdraw with a foot).

6.9.4 The Jury President may rule that one or more quickdraws must be clipped from a particular hold or

earlier. In which case this information shall be announced to all competitors prior to the start of the round and the particular hold(s) and the quickdraw(s) shall be clearly marked, preferably with a blue cross, and pointed out during the route observation.

6.9.5 Any movement of a competitor beyond the legitimate position to clip shall not result in a higher score.

6.9.6 If a competitor clips the rope into a karabiner in accordance with Article 6.9.3a) above, but a “Z-clip”

has occurred, the competitor shall correct the Z-clip. The competitor is permitted to un-clip and re-clip (if necessary, by down-climbing) any of the karabiners involved. After correction, all the protection points shall be clipped in.

6.9.7 The WCC Judge may order that a competitor’s attempt be terminated if they decide that further

         progress on the route would be dangerous.

6.9.8 A competitor may ask at any time during their attempt on the route how much of the fixed climbing time

remains, and the WCC Judge shall immediately inform, or give instruction to inform, the competitor of the remaining time. When the fixed climbing time has ended, the WCC Judge shall instruct, or give instruction to instruct the competitor to stop climbing. A competitor who fails to obey the WCC Judge's instruction to stop climbing shall be liable to disciplinary action in accordance with Section 4 (Disciplinary Procedures).

6.9.9 The attempt of a competitor on a route shall be considered unsuccessful if the competitor:

a) Falls;

b) Exceeds the fixed climbing time for the route;

c) Uses any part of the wall, holds or features demarcated using continuous and clearly identifiable black tape (or if another colour is required to be used, as specified by the Jury President in a technical briefing to competitors);

d) Uses with their hands, holes provided in the climbing wall for the placement of bolt-on holds;

e) Uses the side edges or the top edges of the wall for climbing;

f) Makes use of hangers (including its bolts) or quickdraws for climbing;

g) Fails to clip a quickdraw in accordance with the rules;

h) Returns to the ground with any part of the body after having started their attempt;

i) Uses any artificial aid.

6.9.10 Any infraction of:

a) Articles 6.9.3;

b) Article 6.9.4; or

c) Articles 6.9.9b)-i),

shall result in the competitor's attempt on the route being terminated. The refusal by a competitor to obey the instruction of an WCC Judge to terminate their attempt shall make the competitor liable to disciplinary action in accordance with Section 4 (Disciplinary Procedures).

 

6.10 RANKING AFTER EACH ROUND

General

6.10.1 On any route, each competitor attempting the route shall be ranked using the following criteria:

a) First, all competitors scored as “TOP” in accordance with Article 6.4.2a);

b) Following a), all competitors who have fallen or had their attempt on the route terminated pursuant to Article 6.9.10, in descending order of the score awarded to that competitor pursuant to Articles 6.4.3 to 6.4.4

6.10.2 If competitor eligible to participate in a round fails to start:

a) Both Qualification routes, they shall not be ranked; or

b) One of their Qualification routes, the Semi-Final route or the Final route, they shall be ranked last on that route.

6.10.3 If any competitors are tied following the ranking calculation of Articles 6.10.1 and 6.10.2, then the

ranking of these competitors from the previous round shall be used to break the tie ("countback"). Tied competitors shall be ranked relative to each other in ascending order of their ranking from the preceding round.

Note: No countback to the results of the Qualification round shall be made where competitors were separated into two Starting Groups for the Qualification round.

6.10.4 If following the countback process of Article 6.10.3 any competitors remain tied:

a) If the tie relates to the results of the Final route, the relative ranking of these competitors will be determined by the climbing time for each (lower times are better); or

Note: If the recorded time of any/all tied competitors is equal, then these competitors shall be ranked equal.

b) If the tie relates to any other competitors, the relevant competitors will be given an equal ranking.

Qualification Ranking

6.10.5 Each competitor participating in the Qualification round shall be awarded Ranking Points for each

          Qualification route as follows:

a) Where the competitor has a unique ranking on the route, equal to the ranking of the competitor in their Starting Group; or

b) Where two or more competitors are tied on the route, equal to the average ranking of the tied competitors in their Starting Group.

Example: Where there are 6 ties at 1st place then the Ranking Points awarded to each tied competitor will be equal to (1 + 2 + 3 + 4 + 5 + 6) / 6 = 21 / 6 = 3.50

Example: Where there are 4 ties at 2nd place then the Ranking Points awarded to each tied competitor will be equal to (2 + 3 + 4 + 5) / 4 = 14 / 4 = 3.50

6.10.6 The ranking of competitors within their Starting Group for the Qualification round shall be in

ascending order of the Total Points awarded to each competitor (i.e. lower Total Points is better), calculated according to the following formula:

TP = Ö (R1 * R2)

where:

TP = Total Points

R1 = Ranking Points on first Qualification route in accordance with Article 6.10.5.

R2 = Ranking Points on second Qualification route in accordance with Article 6.10.5.

6.10.7 The points and ranking calculation for Articles 6.10.5 and 6.10.6 shall use arbitrary precision

arithmetic. Points and ranking data presented on the Official Results list shall be presented to two (2) decimal places.

6.10.8 If the Qualification round takes place on two sets of routes with two Starting Groups, the overall

ranking for the Qualification round shall be determined by merging the rankings for each Starting Group, treating competitors having equal rankings as tied.

e.g. Any competitors ranked 1st in Starting Group A and any competitors ranked 1st in Starting Group B shall each be ranked 1st in the consolidated ranking for the Qualification Round.

 

6.11 TECHNICAL INCIDENTS

Definition

6.11.1 A Technical Incident is defined as any occurrence that results in a disadvantage or unfair advantage

           to a competitor which is not the result of an action on the part of the competitor, including:

a) A broken or loose hold;

b) An improperly positioned quickdraw or karabiner;

c) A tight rope which either assists or hinders a competitor;

6.11.2 The WCC Judge, if necessary in consultation with the Chief Route-Setter shall make the confirmation

           or non-confirmation of a Technical Incident.

Procedure following a Technical Incident

6.11.3 Generally, a Technical Incident shall be dealt with as follows:

a) If a competitor is in a non-legitimate position due to a possible Technical Incident, the competitor's attempt shall be terminated. The WCC Judge shall take an immediate decision on whether to declare a Technical Incident and permit the competitor a further attempt on the route.

b) If the competitor is still in a legitimate position:

i) Following a Technical Incident indicated by the WCC Judge, the competitor may choose either to continue or cease climbing. If the competitor chooses to continue to climb, no Technical Incident may be claimed later and no appeal in relation to that Technical Incident shall be allowed.

ii) Following a Technical Incident indicated by the competitor, the competitor shall specify the nature of the Technical Incident and, with the agreement of the WCC Judge, may continue or cease climbing. If the competitor chooses to continue to climb, no Technical Incident may be claimed later and no appeal in relation to that Technical Incident shall be allowed.

6.11.4 If a competitor falls and claims that a Technical Incident has caused the fall, the relevant competitor

shall be immediately escorted to a separate Isolation Zone with access to Warm-Up facilities to await the outcome of the investigation of the claimed Technical Incident and if confirmed, for the duration of the allowed recuperation period. The competitor shall not be permitted to communicate with any person other than WCC and organiser's officials whilst in this Isolation Zone.

6.11.5 Where a competitor:

a) Ceases to climb or their attempt is terminated, in the circumstances described in Article 6.11.3; or

b) A Technical Incident is confirmed in the circumstances described in Article 6.11.4, then the relevant competitor shall be allowed to make a further attempt on the route following a recuperation period approximately equal to one (1) minute for each handhold used prior to the Technical Incident, subject to a maximum period of twenty (20) minutes.

6.11.6 The Jury President will take a decision on when the next attempt of the competitor shall be slotted

within the starting order, based on the competitor’s requested recuperation time within the maximum limit. All concerned competitors shall be informed about the re-slotting.

6.11.7 If a new attempt is, or would be, slotted after the last competitor in any round of the competition and

the competitor who has suffered the Technical Incident has already been placed first in the round, then the competitor shall not be allowed a new attempt on the route.

Effect on results

6.11.8 Where, following the occurrence of a Technical Incident, the relevant competitor:

a) Chooses to continue their attempt in the circumstances described in Article 6.11.3, the result of this attempt shall stand;

b) Is afforded a further attempt on the route pursuant to Article 6.11.5, the competitor shall be recorded as having achieved the best result of their attempts on the route.

 

6.12 USE OF VIDEO RECORDING

6.12.1 Official Video Recordings shall be made of all competitors’ attempts.

6.12.2 Official Video Recordings shall be made using:

a) For the Qualification round, not less than one (1) video camera for each route;

b) For other rounds, not less than two (2) video cameras for each route, which shall be capable of tracking a competitor’s attempt on the relevant route from start to finish.

6.12.3 Prior to the round, the WCC Judge shall brief the camera operators on the appropriate techniques

and procedures. The Jury President in consultation with the WCC Judge shall determine the position of the video cameras.

Note: Particular care shall be taken to ensure that the camera operators are not disturbed in carrying out their duties and that no one is allowed to obscure the camera view.

Note: It is advisable that a Provincial Judge assists the camera operators, who shall have appropriate experience in video recording of climbing competitions.

6.12.4 A playback monitor connected to a video playback system shall be provided for review of any incident

for judging purposes. The playback monitor shall be placed such that the judges can observe the Official Video Recordings and discuss any incident without the video being seen by any unauthorized person and without the judges being overheard or interrupted during their discussions, but conveniently close to the judges' table.

6.12.5 The Official Video Recordings may be used by the route judges to confirm the “controlled/used” rules

            in respect to scoring and the ranking of competitors at the end of each round.

6.12.6 If the WCC Judge considers it appropriate to examine the Official Video Recording of the attempt on

a route by a competitor before making a judging decision, the WCC Judge shall permit the competitor to complete their attempt in accordance with the rules. On completion of their attempt, the WCC Judge shall immediately inform the competitor that their result shall be subject to confirmation following an examination of the Official Video Recording. The confirmation should be given as soon as possible.

6.12.7 Judging decisions (including Appeals) shall not consider any video evidence other than the following:

a) The Official Video Recordings; and

b) At the discretion of the Jury President, any official WCC broadcast video recording. e.g. “Live Streamvideo.

6.12.8 At the end of each round, copies of the Official Video Recordings shall be provided to the Jury

           President if requested.

 

6.13 APPEALS

General

6.13.1 All verbal and written appeals and official responses to appeals shall be made in English.

6.13.2 Excluding appeals made under Article 6.13.3, an appeal shall only be accepted if accompanied by

the official appeals fee. The appeals fee payable shall be in accordance with the list of fees published annually by the WCC. If an appeal is upheld, the appeals fee shall be returned. If an appeal is rejected, the appeals fee shall not be returned.

Safety Appeals

6.13.3 A Safety Appeal may be submitted if the coaches from at least three different teams are of the

opinion that safety is seriously jeopardized. The Jury President shall consider the matter and, if applicable, take the necessary actions.

Appeals Process

6.13.4 In the case of a verbal or written appeal, the Jury President shall convene an Appeals Jury. The

members of the Appeals Jury will be the Jury President and the WCC Delegate. If the Jury President has been involved in the original decision and the WCC Judge has not, then the WCC Judge will take the place of the Jury President.

6.13.5 On receipt of a verbal or written appeal regarding the Official Results, the Jury President will ensure

that an announcement is made that the Official Results are “Under Appeal”, noting which results are the subject of the appeal.

6.13.6 If the Jury cannot come to a unanimous decision on the appeal, the original decision shall stand and

the appeal fee shall be returned. A decision shall be made as rapidly as circumstances allow. In the case of written appeals, the decision of the Appeal Jury shall be made in writing and handed by the Jury President to the person who officially lodged the appeal.

6.13.7 An appeal concerning a competitor’s attempt (for example in relation to the termination of an attempt)

          must be made immediately. The WCC Judge shall immediately refer the matter to the Jury President.

          Where such an appeal is made, the affected competitor shall be treated as though a Technical   

          Incident had occurred and Articles 6.11.5 to 6.11.8 shall apply.

6.13.8 An appeal against the ranking of a competitor as published in any Official Results list:

a) Concerning the Qualification or Semi-Final rounds, shall be made within twenty (20) minutes of the publication of the Official Results list

b) Concerning the Final round, shall be made within ten (10) minutes of the publication of the Official Results list;

          and in each case such appeal must be made in writing.

         Note: Where an appeal is made concerning the scoring of any competitor in relation to a particular

         hold, the Appeals Jury shall review the results of all competitors who have been scored as controlling

         or using that same hold in order to ensure consistency of the scoring.

Consequences of Appeals

6.13.9 A decision of the Appeals Jury shall be final and not subject to further appeal.

6.13.10 An appeal in relation to the consequences of a decision made by the Appeals Jury (an “Original

             Decision”) must be lodged:

a) In respect of appeals concerning the Qualification or Semi-Final rounds, within ten (10) minutes after the publication of the Original Decision; or

b) In respect of appeals concerning the Final round, immediately after publication of the Original Decision.

No appeal in relation to the consequences of an Original Decision can be made outside the above period.

Referral to the Disciplinary Commission

6.13.11 In those cases where the Jury President assesses that an infringement of the rules merits

consideration by the WCC Disciplinary Commission, the matter shall be referred to the disciplinary body together with the Jury President's report, copies of written communications between the Jury President and the team manager/competitor concerned, and all relevant evidence.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7. BOULDERING

 

7.1 GENERAL

7.1.1 Bouldering competitions shall take place on short climbing routes, called boulders, climbed without

         ropes, constructed on purpose-designed, artificial climbing walls.

7.1.2 Bouldering competitions shall normally consist of:

a) A Qualification round with a course of five (5) boulders for each Starting Group and Category;

b) A Semi-Final round with a course of four (4) boulders for each Category; and

c) A Final round with a course of four (4) boulders for each Category.

In the case of unforeseen events, the Jury President may decide to cancel one of the rounds in which case the results of the previous round shall count as the ranking of the cancelled round.

Note: The number of boulders in the Qualification round may be reduced at the discretion of the Jury President.

 

7.2 CLIMBING STRUCTURE

The Climbing Structure

7.2.1 The climbing structure and climbing holds shall comply with the Applicable Standards set out in

         Section 3 (General Rules).

7.2.2 The climbing structure shall normally allow for the construction of at least ten (10) independent boulder

         problems in order to accommodate parallel courses for each round.

7.2.3 All boulders shall be constructed on an elevated platform and aligned in such a way that they are
         visible from any point in the public arena. Each boulder shall include a clearly marked area from which

         the competitor can see the boulder, and which shall include the safety matting.

Design of boulders

7.2.4 If pursuant to Article 7.7.11b) or c) the Qualification round for any Category is to take place with two

(2) Starting Groups and courses, then the boulders on each course shall be constructed with similar character (profile and style) and each course shall have similar overall difficulty.

7.2.5 Each boulder shall have a clearly marked start which shall consist of:

a) Marked handhold(s) for both hands; and

b) Optionally, marked footholds for one or both feet.

         The use of taped “flashes” to mark as the start a blank or unbounded area of the wall is not permitted.

          At the discretion of the Chief Route-Setter the starting holds may be labelled left and right to denote a

          specific required starting position.

7.2.6 Each boulder shall have a clearly marked finish which shall be either:

a) A designated finishing hold; or

b) A defined standing position on top of the boulder.

7.2.7 Each boulder shall have a clearly marked “Bonus Hold”. The positioning of this hold should aid the

separation of competitors with markedly different performance and will be at the Route-Setter’s discretion.

7.2.8 The markings used in relation to Articles 7.2.5, 7.2.6 and 7.2.7 shall be the same for the entire duration

of a competition. The colours used to mark the starting position and the finishing holds shall be the same and a different colour shall be used for the bonus holds. Both colours shall be different from the colour used for demarcations in accordance with Article 7.9.5b). An example of these markings shall be installed within the Isolation Zone.

7.2.9 The maximum number of handholds for one boulder shall be twelve (12) and the average number of

         handholds per boulder in any round shall be between four (4) and eight (8).

 

7.3 SAFETY

7.3.1 Each boulder shall be designed:

a) In such a way that the lowest part of the body of the competitor shall never be higher than three (3) metres above the landing mat; and

b) So as to avoid the danger of a competitor's fall injuring the competitor, or injuring or obstructing any other competitor or third party; and

c) Without any downward jumps.

7.3.2 Landing mats shall protect each boulder. It is the responsibility of the Chief Route-Setter to position the

mats provided by the organiser, and to adjust the number and character of the boulders to the mats available. If mats are joined, the gaps shall be covered in order to avoid that competitors can fall in between them.

Personal Equipment

7.3.3 Competitors are not permitted to carry or use any audio listening equipment during observation or

         whilst climbing.

Safety Checks

7.3.4 The Jury President, the WCC Judge and the Chief Route-Setter shall inspect each boulder and the

safety matting for that boulder prior to the start of each round in order to ensure the maintenance of safety standards. In particular, the WCC Judge and the Chief Route-Setter shall ensure that all boulders comply with the requirements of Articles 7.3.1 and 7.3.2.

 

7.4 SCORING AND TIMING

7.4.1 The jury for each boulder shall be a Boulder Judge who shall be at least a Provincial Judge.

Scoring

7.4.2 On each boulder, a bonus point will be awarded if the competitor controls the Bonus Hold, marked as

described in Article 7.2.8. The bonus point will be awarded also where a competitor successfully completes the boulder without having controlled the Bonus Hold.

7.4.3 For each competitor attempting a boulder, the Boulder Judge will record:

a) The number of attempts required by that competitor to gain a bonus point in accordance with Article 7.4.2; and

b) The number of attempts required by that competitor to successfully complete the boulder in accordance with Article 7.9.4.

7.4.4 For the purposes of scoring, an attempt will be counted each time a competitor:

a) Starts the boulder in accordance with Article 7.9.3;

b) Touches, with hands or feet, or chalks holds other than the starting holds;

c) Adds any “tick marks”.

Timing

7.4.5 An electronic timing system shall be used in each round to display the climbing time remaining for

each competitor’s attempts. The timing display(s) should show time remaining to the nearest second. Where and when possible, the timing display(s) shall be of a number, position and size so that all competitors in the Competition Zone can see the display.

7.4.6 The beginning (and the end) of every Rotation Period in the Qualification and Semi-Final rounds shall

be announced by a loud and clear signal. When one minute remains of the Rotation Period, this will be announced by a different signal.

 

7.5 QUOTA FOR EACH ROUND

7.5.1 The quota of competitors qualifying for the Semi-Final and Final round shall be twenty (20) and six (6)

         competitors respectively.

7.5.2 If in any Category there are two (2) Starting Groups in the Qualification round, the quota for the next

         round shall be equally divided and applied to both groups.

7.5.3 The quota for the Semi-Final and Final round shall be filled with the highest ranked competitors from

the previous round. If the quota is exceeded as a result of tied competitors, all tied competitors shall qualify for the next round of the competition.

 

7.6 STARTING ORDER

Qualification

7.6.1 Where the Qualification round uses two (2) Starting Groups, competitors shall be allocated to one or

         other Starting Group as follows:

a) First, any competitors having a Provincial Ranking for Bouldering on the day of the Technical Meeting (a Current Provincial Ranking) shall be allocated to a Starting Group in the manner shown in the following example:

       Relative Current Provincial Ranking

Starting Group A                 Starting Group B

1st                                                                                          2nd

4th                                                                                          3rd

5th                                                                                          6th

8th                                                                                          7th

9th                                                                                          10th

etc… etc…

b) Second, any un-ranked competitors shall be allocated to one or other Starting Groups by means of random selection such that an equal, or as close to equal as possible, number of competitors are allocated to each set of boulders.

7.6.2 The starting order for the Qualification round within each Starting Group shall be as follows:

a) First, any competitors having a Current Provincial Ranking, in ascending order of their Current Provincial Ranking (i.e. the highest ranked competitor starts first); and

b) Second, all un-ranked competitors in random order.

Semi-Final and Final

7.6.3 The starting order for the Semi-Final and Final rounds shall be the reverse of the ranking order from

the previous round, i.e. the highest ranked competitor shall start last. In the case of tied competitors from a previous round, the starting order between them shall be:

a) Where the tied competitors each have a Current Provincial Ranking, in descending order of their

Current Provincial Ranking (i.e. highest ranked starts last);

b) Where the tied competitors are each unranked or have the same Current Provincial Ranking, randomised; and

c) Where competitors(s) having a Current Provincial Ranking and unranked competitor(s) are tied, the unranked competitor shall start first.

 

7.7 COMPETITION PROCEDURE

General

7.7.1 Where consecutive rounds of a Boulder competition take place on the same day, there shall be a

minimum time gap of two (2) hours between the time when the last competitor finishes the first round and the closing of the Isolation Zone for the following round.

Isolation Rules

7.7.2 Articles 7.7.3 to 7.7.6 (the Isolation Rules) shall apply to all rounds of Boulder competitions.

7.7.3 Once the closing time for the Isolation Zone has passed, Competitors and/or Team Officials must

         remain within the Isolation Zone unless otherwise instructed.

        Note: Competitors/Team Officials or other persons authorised by the Jury President to enter the

       Isolation Zone may choose to leave the Isolation Zone at any time, but having left the Isolation Zone   

       they may not then return once the closing time has passed, and must leave the Competition Area,   

      unless specifically authorised to remain by the Jury President.

7.7.4 The Isolation Zone closing time for any round of the competition shall not be earlier than one (1) hour

before the competitor first on the starting list is scheduled to commence climbing or in the case of the final round, the time scheduled for the presentation of the finalists.

Note: Competitors may view boulders visible from outside the Competition Area at any time prior to the closing time for the Isolation Zone.

7.7.5 Competitors shall have no knowledge of the boulders other than that obtained during the official

observation period or that communicated to them by the Jury President or the judges. It is the sole responsibility of each competitor to fully inform themselves with respect to all instructions regarding the boulders. For the avoidance of doubt:

a) Whilst in the Competition Area, competitors are not permitted to seek any information from persons outside the Competition Area, unless specifically authorised to do so by the Jury President;

b) Competitors who have completed their attempt(s) on a boulder and who for any reason remain in the Competition Area must not pass any information concerning that boulder to any competitor who has not yet attempted that route/boulder.

7.7.6 Failure to comply with the Isolation Rules when in force shall result in disciplinary action in accordance

         with 4 (Disciplinary Procedures).

Preparation prior to Climbing

7.7.7 After having received an official instruction to leave the Isolation Zone/Warm-Up Area and proceed to

         the Call Zone, competitors shall not be accompanied by any person other than authorised officials.

7.7.8 On arrival in the Call Zone, each competitor shall make all final preparations for their attempt, such as

         putting on their climbing shoes, as relevant to the type of competition.

7.7.9 Each competitor shall be ready to leave the Call Zone and enter the Competition Zone when instructed

         to do so. Any undue delay in this regard may result in the issuing of a Yellow Card. Any further delay  

         shall result in disqualification in accordance with Section 4 (Disciplinary Procedures).

Cleaning

7.7.10 The Boulder Judge or organising staff shall clean all holds on a boulder before each competitor   

begins their first attempt. A competitor may also request that holds be cleaned before any attempt on the boulder. Competitors may clean holds that they can reach from the ground. Only brushes or other materials that are provided by the organisation shall be used for this purpose.

Qualification and Semi-Final

7.7.11 The Qualification round for each Category shall take place:

a) Where the number of competitors registered for the competition in that Category is less than 40, on one (1) course of boulders with the competitors in one (1) Starting Group; or

b) Where the number of competitors registered for the competition in that Category is between 40 and 59, on either one (1) or (2) courses of boulders with the competitors in an equal number of Starting Groups, as decided by the WCC Delegate in consultation with the Chief Route-Setter; or

c) Where the number of competitors registered for the competition in that Category is 60 or greater, on two (2) courses of boulders with the competitors in two (2) Starting Groups, one on each course.

7.7.12 The Semi-Final round shall take place on one (1) course of boulders for each Category. Both

           Categories shall normally compete simultaneously.

7.7.13 In the Qualification and Semi-Final rounds, each competitor participating in the round:

a) Shall attempt each boulder of the relevant course in the prescribed order, with a fixed time period (the “Rotation Period”) of five (5) minutes for each boulder;

b) Shall have a resting period equal to the Rotation Period in between their attempts on each successive boulder. At the end of each Rotation Period, the competitors that are climbing shall stop climbing and enter a designated resting area. This area shall not allow observation of any boulder.

The competitors who have finished their resting period shall move on to their next boulder.

Final

7.7.14 The Final round shall take place on one (1) course of boulders for each Category. Both Categories

shall normally compete simultaneously, with the first competitors from each Category starting their attempts on each boulder at the same time.

7.7.15 The Final round shall be preceded by a presentation of the competitors eligible to participate in the

           round.

7.7.16 For each Category:

a) Each boulder in the Final round shall be attempted by all competitors in the order set out in Article 7.6.3.

b) Once a competitor has finished their attempts, they shall return to a separate isolation area and the next competitor shall start their climbing period immediately;

c) Once all competitors have completed their attempts, the competitors shall move on to the next boulder as a group;

7.7.17 The climbing period during the Final round shall be four (4) minutes for each competitor. However, if

a competitor begins an attempt prior to the end of the climbing period, they shall be allowed to finish that attempt.

7.7.18 Both Categories shall commence each boulder at the same time, i.e. if all competitors in one

Category have completed their attempts on a boulder, that Category shall wait for the other before starting the next boulder.

Tie-Break boulder

7.7.19 In the circumstances described in Article 7.10.4a), tied competitors shall make one attempt on a “Tie-

Break” boulder in the starting order of the Final round. The performance of each competitor shall be judged in accordance with Articles 6.4.2 to 6.4.5 and 6.10.1. If following these attempts two or more competitors remain tied, the relevant competitors shall make further attempts up to a maximum of six (6) attempts following the same procedure until they are separated. If a tie still exists after six (6) attempts, then the relevant competitors will be given an equal ranking.

 

7.8 OBSERVATION PROCEDURE

7.8.1 Team Officials shall not be permitted to accompany the competitors during the observation period.

While in the observation area, all competitors remain under the Isolation Rules. Competitors shall remain within the designated observation zone during the observation. They are not permitted to climb on the climbing wall or stand on any equipment or furniture. They may seek clarification only from the Jury President, the WCC Judge or the Boulder Judge assigned to the boulder.

7.8.2 During the observation period, competitors are allowed to touch only the marked starting holds, without

         leaving the ground with both their feet. No recording equipment shall be permitted.

Qualification and Semi-Final

7.8.3 In the Qualification and Semi-Final rounds, the observation period is part of the Rotation Period.

Final

7.8.4 A collective observation period of two (2) minutes per boulder shall be held immediately prior to the

        commencement of the Final round.

 

7.9 CLIMBING PROCEDURE

The Start

7.9.1 Competitors shall normally start each boulder:

a) With both hands on the marked hand-holds; and

b) Where the start includes marked footholds, with a foot on one of these footholds.

If the start for a boulder includes marked footholds for both feet, competitors must place their second foot on the second marked foothold before making any other climbing movement.

7.9.2 If a competitor cannot reach the starting holds from the ground, they shall be permitted to start the

         boulder by jumping for the starting holds.

7.9.3 An attempt shall be deemed to have started when every part of the competitor's body has left the

         ground.

Completion of Attempt

7.9.4 An attempt on a boulder shall be considered successful when the Boulder Judge has announced “OK”,

         having determined that the competitor has either:

a) Controlled the marked finishing hold of the Boulder with both hands; or

b) Where the top of the boulder is indicated as set out in Article 7.2.6b), achieved a standing position on top of the boulder, in each case within any fixed time period defined for the competitor’s attempts.

7.9.5 An attempt on a boulder shall be considered unsuccessful if the competitor fails to control with both

hands the marked finishing hold or, if relevant, achieve a standing position on top of the boulder; or the competitor:

a) Fails to start the boulder in accordance with Articles 7.9.1 and 7.9.2;

b) Uses any part of the wall, holds or features demarcated using continuous and clearly identifiable black tape (or if another colour is required to be used, as specified by the Jury President in a technical briefing to competitors);

c) Uses with their hands any holes provided in the climbing wall for the placement of bolt-on holds;

d) Uses the side edges or the top edges of the wall for climbing;

e) Touches the ground with any part of the body; or

f) If a fixed climbing period has been defined, fails to complete their attempt before the end of that period;

7.9.6 In case of infractions related to 7.9.5a) to f), the Boulder Judge shall instruct the competitor to stop

         climbing.

 

7.10 RANKING AFTER EACH ROUND

General

7.10.1 After each round of the competition, each competitor participating in that round shall be ranked within

          their Starting Group/Category using the following criteria:

a) First, in descending order, the number of successfully completed boulders (“TOPS”) in the current round;

b) Second, in ascending order, the total number of attempts to complete these boulders;

c) Third, in descending order, the total number of bonus points gained by the competitor in the current round;

d) Fourth, in ascending order, the total number of attempts to achieve these bonus points.

Example:

Rank      Tops       T-Attempts           Bonus Points       B-Attempts

1              4              4                              5                              7

2              4              5                              5                              6

3              4              5                              4                              5

4              3              3                              5                              5

7.10.2 If a competitor eligible to participate in a round fails to start:

a) In the Qualification round, they shall not be ranked;

b) In any other round, they shall be ranked last in that round.

7.10.3 If any competitors are tied following the ranking calculation of Articles 7.10.1 and 7.10.2, then the

           ranking of these competitors from the preceding round shall be used to break the tie (“countback”).

          Tied competitors shall be ranked relative to each other in ascending order of their ranking from the

           preceding round.

          Note: No countback to the results of the Qualification round shall be made where competitors were

          separated into two Starting Groups for the Qualification round.

7.10.4 If following the countback process of Article 7.10.3 any competitors remain tied:

a) If such tie relates to competitors ranked equal 1st following the Final round, the relative ranking of these competitors will be determined as set out in Article 7.7.19; or

b) If such tie relates to any other competitors, the relevant competitors will be given an equal ranking.

Qualification Round (Two Starting Groups)

7.10.5 If the Qualification round takes place on two courses with two Starting Groups, the consolidated

ranking for the Qualification round shall be determined by merging the rankings for each Starting Group, treating competitors having equal rankings as tied.

e.g. Any competitors ranked 1st in Starting Group A and any competitors ranked 1st in Starting Group B shall each be ranked 1st in the consolidated ranking.

 

7.11 TECHNICAL INCIDENTS

7.11.1 A Technical Incident is defined as any occurrence that results in a disadvantage or unfair advantage

           to a competitor, which is not the result of an action on the part of the competitor.

7.11.2 The WCC Judge, if necessary in consultation with the Chief Route-Setter shall make the confirmation

           or non-confirmation of a Technical Incident.

Procedure following a Technical Incident

7.11.3 The first attempt made by the competitor who has suffered a Technical Incident, on the same

boulder, after the attempt in which the Technical Incident occurred shall be deemed a continuation of that attempt.

7.11.4 When the competitor who has suffered the Technical Incident resumes their attempts after repairing

or fixing, the competitor shall be allowed the time remaining at the moment when the Technical Incident occurred, with a minimum of two (2) minutes.

7.11.5 If a confirmed Technical Incidents occurs during the Qualification or Semi-Final rounds:

a) If the Technical Incident can be repaired or fixed before the end of the current Rotation Period, the competitor involved will be offered the opportunity to continue with their attempts:

i) If the competitor chooses to continue, then the Technical Incident is finished and no further appeals shall be allowed.

ii) If the competitor chooses not to continue, then the competitor will resume their attempts in a Rotation Period to be decided by the Jury President.

b) If the Technical Incident cannot be repaired or fixed before the end of the current Rotation Period, then at the end of the Rotation Period:

i) The WCC Judge will suspend the round for the competitor who has suffered the Technical Incident and all competitors on the preceding boulders; and

ii) For all the other competitors, the round shall continue.

Once the Technical Incident has been repaired or fixed, the competitor who has suffered the Technical Incident shall resume their attempts. Any other competitors whose round was suspended shall restart at the first full Rotation Period afterward.

7.11.6 If a confirmed Technical Incident occurs during the Final round, the competitor suffering the Technical

Incident shall return to separate isolation in the Transit Zone and await the repair. When the Technical Incident has been repaired or fixed, the affected competitor shall re-commence their attempts.

 

7.12 USE OF VIDEO RECORDING

7.12.1 Official Video Recordings shall be made of all competitors’ attempts.

7.12.2 Official Video Recordings shall be made using at least two (2) video cameras in fixed positions for

           each course of boulders, which together must show:

a) The starting position for each boulder in the course; and

b) The Bonus Hold for each boulder in the course;

c) The finishing hold or position for each boulder in the course; and

d) Any demarcations made pursuant to Article 7.9.5b)

7.12.3 Prior to the round, the WCC Judge shall brief any camera operators on the appropriate techniques

and procedures. The Jury President in consultation with the WCC Judge shall determine the position of the video cameras.

          Note: Particular care shall be taken to ensure that the camera operators are not disturbed in carrying

          out their duties and that no one is allowed to obscure the camera view.

7.12.4 A playback monitor connected to a video playback system shall be provided for review of any incident

for judging purposes. The playback monitor shall be placed such that the judges can observe the Official Video Recordings and discuss any incident without the video being seen by any unauthorized person and without the judges being overheard or interrupted during their discussions, but conveniently close to the judges' table.

7.12.5 Judging decisions (including Appeals) shall not consider any video evidence other than the following:

a) The Official Video Recordings; and

b) At the discretion of the Jury President, any official WCC broadcast video recording. e.g. “Live Stream” video.

7.12.6 At the end of each round, copies of the Official Video Recordings shall be provided to the Jury

           President if requested.

 

7.13 APPEALS

7.13.1 All verbal and written appeals and official responses to appeals shall be made in English.

7.13.2 Excluding appeals made under Articles 7.13.3 and 7.13.7, an appeal shall only be accepted if

accompanied by the official appeals fee. The appeals fee payable shall be in accordance with the list of fees published annually by the WCC. If an appeal is upheld, the appeals fee shall be returned. If an appeal is rejected, the appeals fee shall not be returned.

Safety Appeals

7.13.3 A Safety Appeal may be submitted if the coaches from at least three different teams are of the

opinion that safety is seriously jeopardized. The Jury President shall consider the matter and, if applicable, take the necessary actions.

Appeals Process

7.13.4 In the case of a verbal or written appeal, the Jury President shall convene an Appeals Jury. The

members of the Appeals Jury will be the Jury President and the WCC Delegate. If the Jury President has been involved in the original decision and the WCC Judge has not, then the WCC Judge will take the place of the Jury President.

7.13.5 On receipt of a verbal or written appeal regarding the Official Results, the Jury President will ensure

that an announcement is made that the Official Results are “Under Appeal”, noting which results are the subject of the appeal.

7.13.6 If the Jury cannot come to a unanimous decision on the appeal, the original decision shall stand and

the appeal fee shall be returned. A decision shall be made as rapidly as circumstances allow. In the case of written appeals, the decision of the Appeal Jury shall be made in writing and handed by the Jury President to the person who officially lodged the appeal.

7.13.7 An appeal concerning the judgment of a competitor’s attempt (for example concerning a faulty start)

          must be made immediately and in any case:

a) In the case of the Qualification or Semi-Final round, within the current rotation period; or

b) In the case of the Final round, before the start of the following competitor’s attempts,

and the relevant Route Judge shall immediately refer the matter to the WCC Judge. No fee shall be payable in respect to such appeals.

7.13.8 An appeal against the ranking of a competitor as published in any Official Results list:

a) Concerning the Qualification or Semi-Final rounds, shall be made within twenty (20) minutes of the publication of the Official Results list

b) Concerning the Final round, shall be made within ten (10) minutes of the publication of the Official Results list;

           and in each case such appeal must be made in writing.

Consequences of Appeals

7.13.9 A decision of the Appeals Jury shall be final and not subject to further appeal.

7.13.10 An appeal in relation to the consequences of a decision made by the Appeals Jury (an “Original

             Decision”) must be lodged:

a) In respect of appeals concerning the Qualification or Semi-Final rounds, within ten (10) minutes after the publication of the Original Decision; or

b) In respect of appeals concerning the Final round, immediately after publication of the Original Decision.

No appeal in relation to the consequences of an Original Decision can be made outside the above period.

Referral to the Disciplinary Commission

7.13.11 In those cases where the Jury President assesses that an infringement of the rules merits

consideration by the WCC Disciplinary Commission, the matter shall be referred to the disciplinary body together with the Jury President's report, copies of written communications between the Jury President and the team manager/competitor concerned, and all relevant evidence.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8. SPEED

 

8.1 GENERAL

8.1.1 Speed competitions shall take place on climbing routes with a nominal length of either 10m (the “10m

         Event”) or 15m (the “15m Event”), constructed on purpose-designed, artificial climbing walls.

8.1.2 Speed competitions shall normally consist of:

a) A Qualification round, consisting of a single stage; and

b) A Final round, consisting of between one and three elimination stages.

 

In the case of unforeseen events, the Jury President may decide to cancel one of the rounds, in which case the results of the previous round shall count as the ranking of the cancelled round.

 

8.2 CLIMBING STRUCTURE

The Climbing Structure

8.2.1 The climbing structure and climbing holds shall comply with the Applicable Standards set out in

         Section 3 (General Rules).

8.2.2 The climbing surface shall have a minimum of two parallel lanes with the design of each lane

(including the positioning of timing equipment) conforming to the layout and dimensions set out in Figure 8.2a) for the 10m Event and Figure 8.2b) for the 15m Event. Climbing lanes may be adjacent or separate, but in the latter case the separation between lanes may not be greater than 1m and in all cases the lanes must be horizontally aligned.

8.2.3 The climbing structure shall include two protection points through which the climbing rope shall pass: A

primary point of suspension (the “Top Protection Point”); and a second point (the “Deviation Point”) to assist in control of the climbing rope. The position of the Top Protection Point shall be as marked in Figure 8.2a) for the 10m Event and Figure 8.2b) for the 15m Event. If the Deviation Point is on the front of the climbing surface, its position shall also be as marked in Figure 8.2a) for the 10m Event and Figure 8.2b) for the 15m Event.

8.2.4 The climbing surface shall be finished with resin and quartz sand 0.1/0.4 (Granulometry). A neutral

light colour shall be used on the climbing surface and a high contrast colour for the holds. Each panel of the climbing surface shall have a standard grid of holes as set out in Figure 8.2c) with M10 threaded inserts where any climbing holds are to be placed.

The Climbing Route

8.2.5 The climbing route on each lane shall conform to the design set out in Figure 8.2d) for the 10m Event

or Figure 8.2e) for the 15m Event, using holds manufactured to the design licensed by the WCC for speed competitions. Any other material (holds, quickdraws, etc) shall be removed from the wall, with the exception only of any permanent bolt hangers.

8.2.6 Any timing equipment fixed to the climbing surface shall be placed as indicated in Figure 8.2d) for the

10m Event or Figure 8.2e) for the 15m Event. In exceptional cases, the Chief Route-Setter may specify an alternative position for the timing equipment provided that it must be placed not to interfere with or assist a competitor’s progression on the route.

 

8.3 SAFETY

8.3.1 All technical equipment used in Speed competitions shall meet the requirements of the relevant

         Applicable Standard set out in Section 3 (General Rules).

8.3.2 All routes shall be climbed with the competitor secured from above (by “Top-Rope”) using a climbing

rope meeting the requirements of the Applicable Standard for single ropes. The WCC Judge shall decide the frequency with which the climbing rope is changed.

Protection Points

8.3.3 The connection of the climbing rope with the Deviation Point and Top Protection Point shall be made

using a stainless-steel Locking Karabiner secured to the protection point by a sewn Tape Sling and an 8 mm or 10 mm Maillon Rapide.

Personal Equipment

8.3.4 Each competitor shall wear a climbing harness. The Jury President shall not permit a competitor to

         start if they reasonably believe that a competitor’s harness is unsafe.

8.3.5 The climbing rope shall be connected to the competitor’s harness by two Screwgate or Self-Locking

Karabiners arranged in opposition (i.e. with the gates in opposition) and the climbing rope must also be attached to the Karabiners using a “figure of eight” knot, secured with a “stopper” knot or tape.

8.3.6 Competitors are not permitted to carry or use any audio listening equipment whilst climbing.

Safety Checks

8.3.7 Prior to any attempt on a route, the belayer shall check that:

a) The competitor’s harness is properly fastened; and

b) The climbing rope is connected to the competitor’s harness in accordance with Article 8.3.5.

Belaying

8.3.8 The climbing rope shall be controlled from the ground by two belayers who shall be situated to one

side of the climbing lane. The primary belayer may use either a Locking Belay Device or a Manual Belay Device. The belayers shall pay careful attention to ensure that:

a) A competitor’s movements are not hindered in any way by the rope being either too tight or too loose;

b) All falls are stopped in a safe manner; and

c) A competitor being belayed shall experience no excessive fall.

8.3.9 Belayers appointed by the organisers shall be trained to belay in a manner suitable for Speed

competitions. The WCC Judge is authorised to instruct the organisers to replace any belayer at any time during a competition. If replaced, the belayer shall not be permitted to play any further part in the belaying of any competitor at that competition.

 

8.4 TIMING

8.4.1 The climbing time for each competitor is the period between the starting signal and the completion of

the competitor’s attempt. A valid time will be recorded where the competitor has completed their attempt(s) in accordance with these rules

8.4.2 The climbing time shall be measured using either:

a) A Mechanical-Electrical Timing system approved by the WCC, or

b) Hand Timing, in the event of an un-rectifiable failure of the mechanical-electrical system.

        Note. Each round of a competition shall use only one of the two specified methods. i.e. In the event that

       a round is started but cannot be completed using a Mechanical-Electrical Timing system, the round shall

       be either cancelled or repeated using Hand Timing.

Mechanical-Electrical Timing

8.4.3 The timing system shall be approved by the WCC. The timing system shall be started automatically by

the starting signal and shall record the finishing time for each competitor separately when they strike a mechanical-electrical switch/pad positioned as indicated in Figure 8.2d) for the 10m Event or Figure 8.2e) for the 15m Event.

8.4.4 The timing system should be capable of recording times to at least 1/1000th of a second. For the

purposes of ranking competitors, times shall be reported and displayed to 1/100th of a second. Unless the recorded time is an exact 1/100th of a second, it shall be read and reported to the next lower 1/100th of a second (i.e. rounded down).

8.4.5 The timing device shall include a starting indicator fixed to the climbing surface and placed as specified

          in Article 8.2.6.

8.4.6 The Jury President shall be responsible for ensuring that the timing system is functioning properly. The

Jury President shall meet the technical staff involved and familiarise himself with the equipment before the start of the competition; A control test shall be performed to confirm that the equipment is functioning correctly.

Hand Timing

8.4.7 Hand timing shall use manually operated electronic timers with digital readouts (‘stopwatches’). The

time for each competitor shall be taken from the sound of the starting signal until the moment that the competitor is observed to strike the switch/pad positioned as indicated in Figure 8.2d) for the 10m Event or Figure 8.2e) for the 15m Event.

8.4.8 Three official Timekeepers shall record the time for each competitor. Each Timekeeper shall act

         independently and without showing their watch to, or discussing their time with, any other person.

         Unless the time is an exact 1/10th of a second, times shall be read and recorded to the next lower

         1/10th of a second (i.e. rounded down).

8.4.9 The official time for each competitor shall be determined as follows:

a) Where the time recorded by all three timekeepers agree, as the recorded time;

b) Where two of the three times recorded are equal and the third different, as the time recorded by the two timekeepers in agreement;

c) Where each timekeeper has recorded a different time, as the middle time of the three.

 

8.5 QUOTA FOR EACH ROUND

8.5.1 The quota for the Final round shall be;

Number of competitors recording a valid climbing time in Qualification            Quota

4 - 7                                                                                                                                        4

8 - 15                                                                                                                                      8

16 or more                                                                                                                            16

Note. If the number of competitors recording a valid time in the Qualification round is less than 4, then the Qualification Round will be repeated.

8.5.2 The specified quota for the Final round shall be filled with the highest ranked competitors from the

         Qualification round.

8.5.3 The procedure for dealing with tied competitors where the specified quota for the Final round is

         exceeded is set out in Article 8.7.5

 

8.6 STARTING ORDER

Qualification

8.6.1 The starting order for the left lane (Lane A) shall be randomized. The starting order for the right lane

         (Lane B) shall be in the same order as for Lane A but with a stagger of 50%.

        Example: When 21 competitors are in a category then the one who is scheduled to start 1st on Lane A

        will start 11th on Lane B.

Final

8.6.2 The starting order and lane allocation for each stage of the final round shall be as set out in Figure

         8.6(a), 8.6(b) or 8.6(c) for Final rounds with quotas of 4/8/16 respectively.

        Note. If two or more competitors are tied following the Qualification round, then they shall be randomly

       separated for placement in the starting order of the first stage of the Final round.

 

8.7 COMPETITION PROCEDURE

Practice

8.7.1 Where possible, the Qualification round should be preceded by a practice period. The Jury President

shall announce the timing and duration of any practice period at the Technical Meeting (and if necessary, any reason why a practice period is not possible).

Qualification (Two Lanes)

8.7.2 The Qualification round shall take place on two lanes with competitors climbing in pairs. Other than for

re-runs required following a false start or Technical Incident, each competitor shall make one attempt on each of the two lanes.

        Note: If a competitor has made two false starts, the remaining competitor may complete any

       uncompleted attempts on either or both lanes, but will climb alone.

8.7.3 Competitors shall be afforded a minimum resting time of five (5) minutes between the completion of

         their attempt on their first lane and the start of their attempt on their second lane.

8.7.4 Each competitor shall remain in the Competition Area as directed by the Jury President until they have

         completed their attempts on both lanes.

8.7.5 If the quota for the Final round is exceeded as a result of tied competitors, the relevant competitors

shall make one further attempt on Lane A with a view toward breaking the tie. The times recorded in these attempts will be used only to determine which competitors qualify for the Final round.

        Note: Multiple attempts will be made if necessary to break repeating ties

Final

8.7.6 The Final round shall be preceded by a presentation of the competitors eligible to participate in the

         round.

8.7.7 The Final round shall take place as a series of elimination stages, each consisting of a number of

individual races, the number of stages (and races in each stage) depending on the quota for the Final round.

8.7.8 The winner of each race will be the competitor with the lowest valid time in that race.

         Note. If only one competitor records a valid time in a race, that competitor shall be deemed the winner

         of the race.

8.7.9 If no competitor in a race records a valid time:

a) Where one competitor has made two false starts, the winner shall be the other competitor;

b) Where both competitors have made two false starts or fallen, the race shall be considered tied and Article 8.7.10 shall apply.

        Note. If having won by default under case (a), a competitor chooses to attempt to record a valid time for

        the stage but fails, then case (b) shall take effect.

8.7.10 If following a race the relevant competitors are tied, then:

a) If the tie follows the two final races (the “Small Final” and “Big Final” respectively), the relevant race shall be re-run;

b) If the tie follows any other race, the winner will be the competitor with the lowest valid time from the previous stage (if necessary considering successively preceding stages and/or the Qualification round).

 

8.8 PRACTICE PROCEDURE

8.8.1 The practice period shall normally take the form of either:

a) A pre-run of the Qualification round, each competitor eligible to participate in the Qualification round being allowed one attempt on each lane in the starting order published for the Qualification Round;

           or

b) A series of individual practice periods, one for each team entered into the competition. In this case, the Jury President shall define a practice schedule identifying the time that each team shall report to the competition area and the duration of the period allocated to each team, which shall be proportionate to the number of competitors in the team.

8.8.2 The Jury President shall be allowed to vary the timing and format of the practice period to reflect any

         circumstances specific to the competition.

8.8.3 The practice period shall include a demonstration of the false start signal and of the timing equipment.

 

8.9 CLIMBING PROCEDURE

The Start

8.9.1 All races shall be started with a clearly audible signal initiated by an assigned Starter, who shall not be

         one of the WCC officials. The Starter shall select a position where he is not visible to the competitors.

         The source of the starting signal should be positioned as near possible equidistant from all

         competitors.

8.9.2 On being called to the start of a route, each competitor shall take up an assembly position not more

than two (2) meters in front of the wall. A belayer shall attach the climbing rope to the competitor’s harness as set out in Article 8.3.5.

8.9.3 At the command ‘At your marks’, each competitor shall:

a) Step forward to the wall;

b) Position the starting pad for their preferred starting position; then

c) Take a position on the starting pad with one foot; placing both hands and one foot on their preferred starting holds.

8.9.4 If for any reason, the Starter is not satisfied that the start can proceed after the competitors are on their

marks, he shall order all competitors to withdraw from their marks and shall place them on the assembly position again.

8.9.5 Once all competitors are motionless in the starting position, the Starter shall announce ‘Ready!’ and

         after a short pause of less than 2 seconds shall sound the starting signal.

8.9.6 No appeal against the starting instruction shall be allowed unless the competitor clearly calls that they

         are not ready by raising a hand when the starter asks ‘Ready!

8.9.7 Where in the judgement of the Starter, a competitor either

a) Fails to comply with the commands ‘At your marks’, or does not place themselves in their final starting position after a reasonable time; or

b) After the command ‘At your marks!’ disturbs other competitors through sound or otherwise,

then the Starter shall abort the start. The Jury President may warn the competitor for improper conduct and issue a Yellow Card warning in accordance with Section 4 (Disciplinary Procedures). If the Jury President does not agree with the Starter's decision, then the competitors shall be advised accordingly.

False Starts

8.9.8 A competitor shall be ruled as having made a false start if, in the opinion of the Starter (or an assigned

         Recaller) the competitor either:

a) Leaves the starting pad at any time after the starter has declared ‘Ready!’ and before the starting signal; or

b) Reacts to the starting signal in less than 1/10th of a second.

        Note. Where a Mechanical-Electrical Timing System is in use, the evidence of this equipment shall

        normally be accepted as conclusive. i.e. Absent clear evidence that the equipment is faulty, the records

       made by a Mechanical-Electrical Timing System shall be taken as determining whether a false start has

       occurred.

8.9.9 A competitor may make one (1) false start in each stage of the competition without penalty. If the same

competitor makes a second false start within the same stage, he shall be recorded as having no valid time for the race in which the false start was made and shall not participate further in that stage.

Note: The competitor who has not made a false start may choose to (but is not obliged to) complete their attempts in the relevant stage.

8.9.10 In the event of a false start, the starter shall stop both/all competitors immediately.

8.9.11 A valid time cannot be recorded by any competitor in a race where a false start has occurred.

Completion of Attempt

8.9.12 Subject to Article 8.9.11, an attempt shall be considered successful and a valid time recorded where

           the competitor has struck the timing pad/switch with their hand and stopped the timer.

           Note. Where a Mechanical-Electrical Timing System is in use, the evidence of this equipment shall

           normally be accepted as conclusive. i.e. Absent clear evidence that the equipment is faulty, the    

           records made by a Mechanical-Electrical Timing System shall be taken as determining whether/not

          the competitor has successfully struck the pad/switch and stopped the timer.

8.9.13 If a competitor does not stop the timer, their attempt shall be considered unsuccessful and no valid

           time shall be recorded. No re-run or additional attempt will be allowed unless it is determined that the

           Mechanical-Electrical Timing System is faulty.

          Note. An individual failure to stop the timer shall not be grounds to assert that the equipment is faulty.

          Note. If consecutive competitors on the same route fail to stop the timer, or if systematic failures  

          occur, the Jury President may require the system to be tested. If this testing shows a fault, then the   

          Jury President shall consider whether or not affected competitors should be allowed to re-run. If this

          testing reveals no fault then the results shall stand. Testing may include asking a Route-Setter to   

          climb the route and strike the pad/switch.

          Note. The Jury President may consider video recordings in determining whether or not any equipment

          \test is necessary, however video recording that a competitor struck the pad/switch (but the timer did  

          not stop) shall not be taken as conclusive evidence of equipment fault.

8.9.14 An attempt shall be considered unsuccessful and no valid time recorded if the competitor:

a) Falls;

b) Uses the side edges or the top edges of the wall for climbing;

c) Touches the ground with any part of the body after having started; or

d) Uses any artificial aid.

 

8.10 RANKING AFTER EACH ROUND

Qualification

8.10.1 Subject to Rule 8.9.11 concerning false starts, competitors shall be ranked based on the fastest valid

time recorded from on either of Lane A or Lane B. If a competitor fails to record a valid time on both Lane A and Lane B he shall be ranked in last position.

Final

8.10.2 Competitors eliminated at any stage in the Final round (excluding the semi-final or final stages) shall

           be ranked based on their climbing time in that stage.

           Note. If an eliminated competitor fails to achieve a valid time they shall be ranked last in that stage.

8.10.3 If two or more eliminated competitors either (i) each fail to record valid times in the races in which

they were eliminated; or (ii) record equal valid times in the stage in which they were eliminated, then their relative ranking shall be determined based on their times in the preceding stage (and if necessary in successively preceding stages and/or following the Qualification round).

8.10.4 The two competitors eliminated in the semi-final stage will compete head-head for 3rd and 4th places

(the Small Final) and the winners of the semi-final stage will compete head-head for 1st and 2nd places (the Big Final). The Small Final shall always be run and completed before the start of the Big Final

 

8.11 TECHNICAL INCIDENTS

8.11.1 A Technical Incident is defined as any occurrence that results in a disadvantage or unfair advantage

          to a competitor, which is not the result of an action on the part of the competitor.

8.11.2 The confirmation or non-confirmation of a Technical Incident shall be made by the WCC Judge (or if

           none is present, the Jury President) if necessary in consultation with the Chief Route-Setter.

8.11.3 A failure of the Mechanical-Electrical Timing system shall be considered as a Technical Incident and

may affect either only the competitors in the race in which the failure occurred or, where the failure cannot be rectified, all competitors in the stage in which the failure occurred:

a) If the failure can be rectified (e.g. where the failure relates to a faulty connection), then the race shall be re-run once the system has been rectified and confirmed to be working;

b) If the failure cannot be rectified, the Jury President may either (i) cancel the round in which the failure occurred; or (ii) order a re-run of the stage in which the failure occurred.

          Note: Article 8.4.2 shall apply at all times. i.e. under no circumstances shall Mechanical-Electrical

          Timing and Hand Timing be used within the same stage of the competition.

Procedure following a Technical Incident

8.11.4 If a competitor or Team Manager considers that a Technical Incident has occurred, they must notify

the WCC Judge (or if none is present, the Jury President) of the incident immediately and in any case prior to the start of the next race. No Technical Incident will be considered where notification is made following the start of the next or subsequent races.

8.11.5 Where a claimed or confirmed Technical Incident has occurred, all competitors affected will remain

           within the Competition Area as directed by the Jury President.

8.11.6 Where a Technical Incident occurs that affects only one competitor in a race:

a) If the Technical Incident occurs during the Qualification round, only the competitor affected by the Technical Incident shall be allowed a re-run;

b) If the Technical Incident occurs during the Final round, the relevant race shall be re-run.

8.11.7 A minimum recuperation time of five (5) minutes shall be allowed to competitors affected by a

          Technical Incident.

 

8.12 USE OF VIDEO RECORDING

8.12.1 Official Video Recordings shall be made of all competitors’ attempts.

8.12.2 Official Video Recordings shall be made using least two (2) video cameras, which must as a

           minimum show:

a) The starting position for both lanes at the start of any race;

b) The timing pad/switch for both lanes at the completion of any race; and

c) The attempt of each pair of competitors in any race.

8.12.3 Prior to the round, the Jury President shall brief the camera operators on the appropriate techniques

          and procedures. The Jury President shall determine the position of the video cameras.

          Note: Particular care shall be taken to ensure that the camera operators are not disturbed in carrying  

          out their duties and that no one is allowed to obscure the camera view.

8.12.4 A playback monitor connected to a video playback system shall be provided for review of any incident

for judging purposes. The playback monitor shall be placed such that the judges can observe the Official Video Recordings and discuss any incident without the video being seen by any unauthorized person and without the judges being overheard or interrupted during their discussions, but conveniently close to the judges' table.

8.12.5 Judging decisions (including Appeals) shall not consider any video evidence other than the following:

a) The Official Video Recordings; and

b) At the discretion of the Jury President, any official WCC broadcast video recording. e.g. “Live Stream” video.

8.12.6 At the end of each round, copies of the Official Video Recordings shall be provided to the Jury

           President if requested.

 

8.13 APPEALS

8.13.1 All verbal and written appeals and official responses to appeals shall be made in English.

8.13.2 Excluding appeals made under Articles 8.13.3 and 8.13.7, an appeal shall only be accepted if

accompanied by the official appeals fee. The appeals fee payable shall be in accordance with the list of fees published annually by the WCC. If an appeal is upheld, the appeals fee shall be returned. If an appeal is rejected, the appeals fee shall not be returned.

Safety Appeals

8.13.3 A Safety Appeal may be submitted if the coaches from at least three different teams are of the opinion that safety is seriously jeopardized. The Jury President shall consider the matter and, if applicable, take the necessary actions.

Appeals Process

8.13.4 In the case of a verbal or written appeal, the Jury President shall convene an Appeals Jury. The

           members of the Appeals Jury will be the Jury President and the WCC Delegate.

8.13.5 On receipt of a verbal or written appeal regarding the Official Results, the Jury President will ensure

that an announcement is made that the Official Results are “Under Appeal”, noting which results are the subject of the appeal.

8.13.6 If the Jury cannot come to a unanimous decision on the appeal, the original decision shall stand and

the appeal fee shall be returned. A decision shall be made as rapidly as circumstances allow. In the case of written appeals, the decision of the Appeal Jury shall be made in writing and handed by the Jury President to the person who officially lodged the appeal.

8.13.7 An appeal concerning:

a) The judgment of a competitor’s attempt (for example concerning an adjudged false start) in any race; or

b) The result of any race in the Final round,

must be made immediately and in any case prior to the start of the next race. The next race shall not commence until the Appeal has been decided. No fee shall be payable in respect to such appeals.

8.13.8 An appeal against the ranking of a competitor as published in any Official Results list:

a) Concerning the Qualification round, shall be made within twenty (20) minutes of the publication of the Official Results list

b) Concerning the Final round, shall be made within ten (10) minutes of the publication of the Official Results list;

           and in each case such appeal must be made in writing.

Consequences of Appeals

8.13.9 A decision of the Appeals Jury shall be final and not subject to further appeal.

8.13.10 An appeal in relation to the consequences of a decision made by the Appeals Jury (an “Original

             Decision”) must be lodged:

a) In respect of appeals concerning the Qualification round, within ten (10) minutes after the publication of the Original Decision; or

b) In respect of appeals concerning the Final round, immediately after publication of the Original Decision.

            No appeal in relation to the consequences of an Original Decision can be made outside the above

            period.

Referral to the Disciplinary Commission

8.13.11 In those cases where the Jury President assesses that an infringement of the rules merits

consideration by the WCC Disciplinary Commission, the matter shall be referred to the disciplinary body together with the Jury President's report, copies of written communications between the Jury President and the team manager/competitor concerned, and all relevant evidence.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9. TEAM SPEED

 

9.1 GENERAL

9.1.1 These rules shall be read in conjunction with Section 8 (Speed).

9.1.2 Each team shall consist of three (3) competitors of the same sex.

9.1.3 Each member club shall normally be permitted to enter a maximum of two (2) teams in any T Team

         Speed event.

 

9.2 CLIMBING STRUCTURE

9.2.1 The climbing structure and routes shall conform to the requirements set out in Article 8.2 as modified

         by the following provisions:

a) The climbing structure shall have a minimum of two pairs of parallel lanes (i.e. a minimum of four lanes) with the design of each lane (including the positioning of timing equipment) conforming to the layout and dimensions specified for the 15m individual event.

b) The climbing structure for the left hand lane in each pair of lanes shall have two Top Protection Points, so as to allow the use of separate climbing ropes for the first and third competitors in the team.

 

9.3 TIMING

9.3.1 The climbing time for a team is the period between the starting signal and the completion of the third

competitors’ attempt. A valid time will be recorded only where all competitors within the team have completed their attempts in accordance with these rules.

9.3.2 The climbing time shall be determined using a Mechanical-Electrical Timing system approved by the

         WCC. Hand Timing shall not be used for Team Speed competitions.

9.3.3 A starting indicator on each lane will a display a recognisable signal (e.g. by the use of green lights) to

         show when the currently climbing competitor has completed their attempt.

 

9.4 COMPETITION PROCEDURE

Practice

9.4.1 Where possible, the Qualification round should be preceded by a practice period in which each team is

given the opportunity to attempt a race. The Jury President shall announce the timing and duration of any practice period at the Technical Meeting (and if necessary, any reason why a practice period is not possible)

Qualification (Four Lanes)

9.4.2 The Qualification round shall normally take place on two (2) pairs of lanes with teams climbing in pairs.

i.e. one team on each lane pair. Other than for re-runs required following a false start or Technical Incident, each team shall have only one attempt to record a valid Qualification time.

Note: If the number of teams entered in the competition is an odd number, the last team to climb will climb alone.

9.4.3 The starting order of each team shall be randomised.

9.4.4 If the quota for the Final round is exceeded as a result of tied teams, the relevant teams shall make a

further attempt on the left hand pair of lanes with a view toward breaking the tie. The times recorded in these attempts will be used only to determine which team qualifies for the Final round.

Note: Multiple attempts will be made if necessary to break repeating ties

Final

9.4.5 The Final round shall take place as a series of elimination stages, as set out in Articles 8.7.6 to 8.7.10

         (in each case replacing references to ‘competitor’ within these Articles by the word ‘team’).

 

9.5 CLIMBING PROCEDURE

The Start

9.5.1 On being called to the start of a route, each competitor within the team shall take up an assembly

position not more than 2 meters in front of the wall. The competitors scheduled to climb first and third within the team shall attempt the left lane, and the competitor scheduled to climb second within the team shall attempt the right lane. A belayer shall attach a climbing rope to each competitor’s harness as set out in Article 8.3.5.

9.5.2 The starting procedure for the competitor scheduled to climb first within the team shall be as set out in

         Articles 8.9.1 and 8.9.3 to 8.9.7.

9.5.3 The starting procedure for the competitor scheduled to climb second and third within the team shall be

         as follows:

a) Each competitor shall Immediately take up their starting position once the competitor preceding them in the starting order has commenced their attempt; and

b) Shall start climbing only when the starting indicator shows that the preceding competitor has completed their attempt.

False Starts

9.5.4 Articles 9.5.5 to 9.5.8 supersede Articles 8.9.8 to 8.9.11, which are not applicable.

9.5.5 A team shall be ruled as having made a false start if, in the opinion of the Starter (or an assigned

         Recaller):

a) The first competitor in a team leaves the starting pad at any time after the starter has declared Ready!’ and before the starting signal;

b) The first competitor in a team reacts to the starting signal in less than 1/10th of a second; or

c) The second/third competitors in a team leave the ground prior to the preceding competitor having completed their attempt.

         Note. Where a Mechanical-Electrical Timing system is in use, the evidence of this equipment shall

         normally be accepted as conclusive. i.e. Absent clear evidence that the equipment is faulty, the

         records made by a Mechanical-Electrical Timing system shall be taken as determining whether a false

         start has occurred.

9.5.6 In the event of any false start by the first competitor in any team, the starter shall stop both/all teams

         immediately and/or shall prevent the second/third competitors in each team from starting.

9.5.7 In the event that the first competitor of a team makes two false starts within one stage of the

competition, the team shall be recorded as having no valid time for the race in which the false start was made.

Note: In the event that the first competitor in a team makes a second false start, the team that has not made a false start may choose to (but is not obliged to) complete their attempts in the relevant stage.

9.5.8 Where the second/third competitor in a team commits a false start:

a) The Starter (or an assigned Recaller) will prevent the start of any remaining competitors from the team that made the false start;

b) The team not having made a false start shall continue uninterrupted and may record a valid time, and the team committing the false start shall be recorded as having no valid time for the race in which the false start was made.

         Note. Where in case (b), the team continuing to climb makes a later false start, then this team shall

        also be stopped. However, if this team fails to record a valid time, no re-run shall be allowed.

Completion of Attempt

9.5.9 Articles 9.5.10 to 9.5.12 supersede Articles 8.9.12 to 8.9.14, which are not applicable.

9.5.10 Each competitor in a team must strike the timing pad/switch with their hand, and

a) In the case of the first and second competitors, initiate the start signal for the following competitor;

b) In the case of the third competitor, stop the timer.

          Note. Where a Mechanical-Electrical Timing System is in use, the evidence of this equipment shall

          normally be accepted as conclusive. i.e. Absent clear evidence that the equipment is faulty, the

         records made by a Mechanical-Electrical Timing System shall be taken as determining whether/not the

         competitor has successfully struck the pad/switch and stopped the timer.

9.5.11 If either:

a) The first or second competitors fail to initiate the start signal for the following competitor; or

b) The third competitor does not stop the timer,

then the team’s attempt shall be considered unsuccessful and no valid time shall be recorded. No rerun or additional attempt will be allowed unless it is determined that the Mechanical-Electrical Timing System is faulty.

Note. An individual failure to stop the timer shall not be grounds to assert that the equipment is faulty.

Note. If consecutive teams on the same route fail to stop the timer, or if systematic failures occur, the Jury President may require the system to be tested. If this testing shows a fault, then the Jury President shall consider whether or not affected competitors should be allowed to re-run. If this testing shows no fault then the results shall stand. Testing may include asking a Route-Setter to climb the route and strike the pad/switch.

Note. The Jury President may consider video recordings in determining whether or not any equipment test is necessary, however video recording that a competitor struck the pad/switch (but the timer did not stop) shall not be taken as conclusive evidence of equipment fault.

9.5.12 An team’s attempt shall be considered unsuccessful and no valid time recorded if any competitor in

           the team:

a) Falls;

b) Uses any part of the wall, holds or features demarcated using continuous and clearly identifiable black tape (or if another colour is required to be used, as specified by the Jury President in a technical briefing to competitors);

c) Uses the side edges or the top edges of the wall for climbing;

d) Touches the ground with any part of the body after having started; or

e) Uses any artificial aid.

 

9.6 RANKING AFTER EACH ROUND

Qualification

9.6.1 Teams shall be ranked based on the fastest valid time recorded on their Qualification attempt. If a

         team fails to record a valid time it shall be ranked in last position.

Final

9.6.2 The ranking of each team will follow the principles set out in Articles 8.10.2 to 8.10.4 (in each case

         replacing references to ‘competitor’ within these Articles by the word ‘team’).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10. SPEED RECORDS

 

10.1 GENERAL

10.1.1 The provisions of Section 8 (Speed) shall apply unless otherwise stated or modified within this

           Section.

10.1.2 The WCC recognises the following Records in Speed for both Male and Female Categories:

10m Event                            15m Event

Senior                    Y                                                              Y

Junior                    Y                                                              Y

Youth A                 Y                                                              Y

Youth B                 Y                                                              Y

10.1.3 A Record in Speed can be set only:

a) On a Climbing Structure listed on the IFSC website as certificated by the IFSC to meet the requirements for a World Record;

b) Where the competition is included in the official WCC calendar of events; and

c) Where a Jury President has been appointed by the WCC. The Jury President shall report any new Record to the WCC.

 

10.2 CLIMBING STRUCTURE

10.2.1 The climbing surface shall be finished in a Light Grey colour (ref RAL 7035/ 7001/ 7038/ 7044/

9002/9018) and all holds on the routes shall be manufacture in a Red colour (ref RAL 2002/ 2004/ 2008/2009/ 2011/ 2012).

10.2.2 The climbing surface and holds shall have been homologated by a WCC Technical Delegate as

           conforming with the design specifications of Article 8.2:

a) In the case of a permanent structure, not more than 24 months before the date of the competition;

           or

b) In the case of a temporary structure, prior to the commencement of the competition,

and in each case, the competition organiser shall provide a copy of an Homologation Report to the Jury President as evidence.

 

10.3 TIMING

10.3.1 The climbing time shall be determined using an official WCC timing system.

10.3.2 No record may be set where Hand Timing has been used. i.e. Articles 8.4.7 to 8.4.9 are not  

           applicable.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11. PROVINCIAL SERIES

 

11.1 INTRODUCTION

11.1.1 In accordance with the WCC Statutes, a Provincial series of competitions shall be organised each

           year for each Discipline. e.g. Provincial Boulder, Provincial Lead, Provincial Speed.

11.1.2 The WCC may approve up to a maximum of ten (10) Provincial competitions each year for each

           Discipline.

11.1.3 Each Provincial competition shall include both Male and Female Categories and shall include at least

           one Discipline.

11.1.4 Provincial competitions shall normally take place during weekend periods. The maximum duration of

a Provincial competition shall be two (10) days if there is only one Discipline, three (15) days for two Disciplines, and four (20) days for all three Disciplines.

 

11.2 ELIGIBILITY

11.2.1 Only competitors who hold a valid SANCF and WCC Membership Card shall be eligible to compete in

           a Provincial competition.

 

11.3 FORMAT

11.3.1 The format of each event in a Provincial competition shall be as set out in the relevant Section of Part

           2 to these Rules.

11.3.2 For each event in a Provincial competition:

a) The Qualification round for both Categories shall normally be held on the same day;

b) The Semi-Final and Final rounds for both Categories shall normally both be held on the day following the Qualification round.

 

11.4 REGISTRATION OF COMPETITORS

11.4.1 Member clubs may register up to a maximum of five (5) team officials who shall be granted free entry

into the competition venue. These officials shall be named on the official WCC registration form and specifically nominated for one of the following roles:

a) One (1) team manager;

b) Two (2) team coaches;

c) Two (2) qualified medical or para-medical personnel.

11.4.2 Subject to Article 11.2.1, member clubs may register on the official WCC registration form a

           Club Team comprising (where applicable):

a) Any current Adult/Youth Club/Provincial Champion (only for the Discipline in which they are champion);

b) Any competitors ranked tenth (10th) or above on the relevant Club and Provincial Ranking at the registration deadline for the competition; and

1.4.3 The presence of all persons registered pursuant to Articles 11.4.1 and 11.4.2 must be confirmed:

a) By the attendance of at least one team official or competitor at the competition venue at the time specified on the information sheet provided by the Organiser (or if no such time is specified, not later than 30 minutes prior to the commencement of the Technical Meeting); or

b) By SMS to the WCC Delegate and/or the Jury President where:

i) The WCC Delegate has placed a notice on the WCC website that confirmation by SMS will be permitted; or

ii) Exceptional circumstances such as strikes, traffic delay, etc. prevent attendance in person,

in each case not later than the time specified on the information sheet provided by the Organiser (or if no such time is specified, not later than 30 minutes prior to the commencement of the Technical Meeting).

11.4.4 Registered competitors not confirmed as present in accordance with Article 11.4.3 will be deleted

           from the Official Starting List.

 

11.5 TECHNICAL MEETING

11.5.1 A Technical Meeting shall normally be held prior to commencement of the competition. The purpose

          of the Technical Meeting is to:

a) Confirm the event schedule (and any changes from the information on the WCC website);

b) Hand out the Official Starting List for the Qualification round;

c) Identify any specific information related to the application of these Rules in the competition;

d) Communicate any logistics information not available from the WCC.

 

11.6 PUBLICATION OF STARTLISTS AND RESULTS

Publication of Start Lists

11.6.1 A list of competitors entered for each Provincial event shall be published by the WCC at least four (4)

          days prior to the competition.

11.6.2 The starting order of competitors in each Provincial event shall be calculated as set out in the

          relevant Section of Part 2 to these Rules.

11.6.3 Official Starting Lists for each Category shall be prepared:

a) For the Qualification round, at the Technical Meeting preceding the relevant event and following the registration confirmation deadline per Article 11.4.3 above.

b) For each other round, following publication of the Official Results of the preceding round and following the conclusion of any appeals procedures,

and in each case published by the WCC, the official competition notice board and in the Isolation Zone/Warm-Up area; and copies made available to members of the competition jury, Team Managers, the competition speaker and media representatives.

11.6.4 Starting lists shall provide the following information:

a) The relevant Category and round;

b) The starting order;

c) The name and Club of each competitor;

d) The Provincial Ranking of each competitor, when relevant;

e) The opening and closing time of the Isolation Zone, when relevant (or if not relevant, the closing time for registration in the round);

f) The time of observation or demonstration, and start of the round, when relevant;

g) Any other information approved by the WCC or the Jury President.

11.6.5 If a competitor fails to report either:

a) For registration in a round/to the Isolation Zone, prior to the published closing time; or

b) To the Call Zone when called,

then that competitor shall be deleted from the Official Startling List for the round. The order of the remaining competitors and their allocation to Starting Groups (when relevant) shall remain unchanged.

Publication of Results

11.6.6 The results and rankings for competitors in each Provincial event shall be calculated as set out in

           Article 11.7.

11.6.7 At the end of each round of a competition, a Provisional Results list showing the result and ranking of

each competitor shall be prepared. This Provisional Results list shall be published as unofficial information awaiting the finalisation of the Official Results list, and team managers and/or competitors may make unofficial comments. It is recommended that Provisional Results be projected on screens during all rounds of a competition.

11.6.8 After the Provisional Results list has been checked, amended if necessary, and officially approved in

           writing by the WCC Judge, the Official Results list shall be published.

11.6.9 At the end of a competition, a consolidated Official Results list showing the final ranking of all

competitors, as well as their results in all rounds of the competition, shall be prepared, signed by the WCC Judge and the Jury President, and published.

11.6.10 All Official Results lists shall be prepared in a format as stipulated by the WCC, published on the

official competition notice board, and copies made available to members of the competition jury, team managers, the competition speaker and media representatives.

 

11.7 PROVINCIAL RANKINGS

Event Rankings

11.7.1 The ranking of individual competitors participating in any individual event in a Provincial competition

           shall be calculated as set out in the relevant Section of Part 2 to these Rules.

Provincial Ranking

11.7.2 At the end of each Provincial competition, the first thirty competitors in each Category and Discipline

shall be awarded the following Ranking Points for the purpose of calculating the Provincial Ranking of each competitor:

Rank      Points    Rank      Points    Rank      Points

1st                  100         11th              31           21st              10

2nd                 80           12th              28           22nd             9

3rd                 65           13th              26           23rd              8

4th                  55           14th              24           24th              7

5th                  51           15th              22           25th              6

6th                  47           16th              20           26th              5

7th                  43           17th              18           27th              4

8th                  40           18th              16           28th              3

9th                  37           19th              14           29th              2

10th              34           20th              12           30th              1

          Note: The points gained by tied competitors in a competition will be the average of the points for the  

          tied rank positions. The points will be rounded off to whole numbers.

11.7.3 The Provincial Ranking shall be calculated by adding the Ranking Points awarded to each competitor

across the Provincial series, subject to Articles 11.7.4 and 11.7.5, ranking competitors in descending order of the total number of Ranking Points accumulated. The Provincial Ranking for each Discipline shall be published after each competition in the series.

11.7.4 The maximum number of results counting toward the Provincial Ranking shall be:

a) When five (5) or less competitions are organised, all results shall count;

b) When six (6) or more competitions are organised, the number of counting results will be the number of competitions less one (1). If a competitor has competed in more competitions that the number of counting results, the competitors’ ‘worst’ result shall be discarded in calculating their Provincial Ranking.

11.7.5 If two or more competitors are tied in first place in the Provincial Ranking at the completion of the final

competition of the Provincial series, having the same number of points; the tied competitors shall be assessed with a view to breaking the tie by comparing the individual rankings in those competitions in which the competitors have been in direct competition with each other - i.e. the number of 'better' places in competitions in which they have competed against each other. If a tie remains unbroken following this assessment, then the highest number of best results, starting with the number of 1st places, then the number of 2nd places and so on, shall determine the first place.

Team Ranking

11.7.6 At the end of each Provincial competition, a “Provincial Team Ranking” shall be calculated for each

Discipline of the competition by adding the Ranking Points of the three (3) highest ranked individual team members in each Category participating in that Discipline, ranking teams in descending order of the total number of Ranking Points accumulated.

11.7.7 An “Overall Team Ranking” for the Provincial series shall be calculated by adding the points achieved

by each provincial team in accordance with Article 11.7.6 across the series, ranking teams in descending order of the total number of Ranking Points accumulated. The maximum number of competitions to be used in this calculation shall be the number of counting results in accordance with Article 11.7.4.

Combined Ranking

11.7.8 A “Combined Ranking” shall be calculated for each competitor having been awarded Ranking Points

in two (2) or more Disciplines. The Combined Ranking shall be calculated by adding the highest Ranking Points awarded to the competitor in each Provincial series, ranking competitors in descending order of the total number of Ranking Points accumulated. The maximum number of results from each Provincial series to be used in this calculation shall be five (5).

 

11.8 MEDALS AND PRIZES

11.8.1 At the end of each Provincial competition:

a) Gold/Silver/Bronze medals shall be awarded to the competitors respectively ranked 1st, 2nd and 3rdin each Category for each Discipline forming part of the competition; and

          Note: In the event of tied places, multiple medals will be awarded

b) A competition trophy shall be awarded to the winner within each Category for each Discipline forming part of the competition.

c) A presentation shall be made for the teams ranked 1st, 2nd and 3rd in the Team Ranking

d) Prize money shall be awarded to each competitor ranked 6th or above in each Category for each Discipline forming part of the competition.

          Note: In the event of tied places, the tied competitors shall each receive the average of the prize

          money for the tied places. e.g. in the event of two competitors tied in first place, each competitor shall

         receive the average of the amount advertised by the Organiser for first place and second place.

11.8.2 The WCC Management Committee establishes the minimum amount of prizes for each season. The

list of prizes is established by the WCC Board in consultation with the Organising Committee when exceeding this minimum.

11.8.3 On completion of the last event in each Provincial series:

a) A trophy shall be awarded to the overall winner of that Provincial series in each Category (i.e. the competitor ranked 1st within the Provincial Ranking).

b) Plates shall be awarded to the competitors ranked 2nd and 3rd within the Provincial Ranking.

c) A trophy shall be awarded to the team having the highest Overall Team Ranking for that Provincial series.

11.8.4 On completion of the last Provincial event in the calendar year, a presentation shall be made to the

           competitors ranked 1st, 2nd and 3rd in the Combined Ranking.

 

11.9 CEREMONIES

11.9.1 The award ceremony at the end of a competition, which shall be organised immediately after the

           conclusion of the final rounds, shall comply with the protocol for such ceremonies.

11.9.2 Unless specifically authorised by the Jury President, the top three (3) finalists in each Category shall

attend the award ceremony. Failure to observe this rule shall make a competitor liable to disciplinary action in accordance with Section 4 (Disciplinary Procedures).

 

11.10 ANTI-DOPING TESTS

11.10.1 The member club/organiser shall arrange for anti-doping tests to be carried out in compliance with

the national regulations governing international sport in their country, the World Anti-Doping Code, and the WCC Anti-Doping Policy and Procedure and Disciplinary Rules.

11.10.2 Anti-doping tests shall be administered as a minimum to the following persons, as required or

             requested:

a) The winners in each Category of each individual event;

b) Any competitor setting a new World Record in Speed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12. NATIONAL COMPETITIONS

 

12.1 INTRODUCTION

12.1.1 In accordance with the WCC Statutes, a National competition shall be organised every year.

12.1.2 Each National competition shall include both Male and Female Categories and shall include events in

all three Disciplines. Unless the WCC has specified an alternative format, the format of the competition shall be as defined in the relevant Section of Part 2 to these Rules.

12.1.3 National competitions shall normally take place during weekend periods. The maximum duration of a

           National competition shall be five (5) days.

 

12.2 ELIGIBILITY

12.2.1 Only competitors who hold a valid SANCF and WCC Membership Card shall be eligible to compete in

           a National competition.

 

12.3 FORMAT

12.3.1 Unless the WCC has specified an alternative format, the format of each event in a National

           competition shall be as set out in the relevant Section of Part 2 to these Rules.

 

12.4 REGISTRATION OF COMPETITORS

12.4.1 Member clubs may register up to a maximum of five (5) team officials who shall be granted free entry

into the competition venue. These officials shall be named on the official WCC registration form and specifically nominated for one of the following roles:

a) One (1) team manager;

b) Two (2) team coaches;

c) Two (2) qualified medical or para-medical personnel.

12.4.2 Subject to Article 12.2.1, member clubs may register on the official WCC registration form a

           Team comprising (where applicable):

a) Any current Adult Provincial/National Champion (who shall be registered for the Discipline in which they are champion); and

b) In addition to (a), a further five (5) competitors for each Category and Discipline of the competition.

12.4.3 The presence of all persons registered pursuant to Articles 12.4.1 and 12.4.2 must be confirmed:

a) By the attendance of at least one team official or competitor at the competition venue at the hour specified on the information sheet provided by the Organiser; or

b) By SMS to the WCC Delegate and/or the Jury President, not later than the time specified on the information sheet provided by the Organiser, only where exceptional circumstances such as strikes, traffic delay, etc. prevent attendance in person.

           Note: Depending on the schedule of the competition, supplementary Registration Meetings may be

          held for events commencing after the first day of the competition.

12.4.4 Registered competitors not confirmed as present in accordance with Article 12.4.3 will be deleted

           from the Official Starting List.

 

12.5 TECHNICAL MEETING(S)

12.5.1 A Technical Meeting shall be held prior to the commencement of the competition. The purpose of the

          Technical Meeting is to:

a) Confirm the event schedule (and any changes from the information on the WCC website);

b) Hand out the Official Starting List for the Qualification round of each event;

c) Identify any specific information related to the application of these Rules in the competition;

d) Communicate any logistics information not available from the WCC website.

         Note: Depending on the schedule of the competition, separate Technical Meetings may be held for

        each event.

 

12.6 PUBLICATION OF STARTLISTS AND RESULTS

Publication of Start Lists

12.6.1 A list of competitors entered for each event in the National Competitions shall be published by the

           WCC at least four (4) days prior to the competition.

12.6.2 The starting order of competitors in each event shall be calculated as set out in the relevant Section

           of Part 2 to these Rules.

12.6.3 Official Starting Lists for each Category shall be prepared:

a) For the Qualification round, at the Technical Meeting preceding the relevant event and following the registration confirmation deadline per Article 12.4.3 above.

b) For each other round, following publication of the Official Results of the preceding round and following the conclusion of any appeals procedures,

and in each case published by the WCC, the official competition notice board and in the Isolation Zone/Warm-Up area; and copies made available to members of the competition jury, Team Managers, the competition speaker and media representatives.

12.6.4 Starting lists shall provide the following information:

a) The relevant Category and round;

b) The starting order;

c) The name and club of each competitor;

d) The National Ranking of each competitor, when relevant;

e) The opening and closing time of the Isolation Zone, when relevant (or if not relevant, the closing time for registration in the round);

f) The time of observation or demonstration, and start of the round, when relevant;

g) Any other information approved by the WCC or the Jury President.

12.6.5 If a competitor fails to report either:

a) For registration in a round/to the Isolation Zone, prior to the published closing time; or

b) To the Call Zone when called,

then that competitor shall be deleted from the Official Startling List for the round. The order of the remaining competitors and their allocation to Starting Groups (when relevant) shall remain unchanged.

Publication of Results

12.6.6 The results and rankings for competitors in each event of the National competitions shall be

           calculated as set out in Article 12.7.

12.6.7 At the end of each round of the competition, a Provisional Results list showing the result and ranking

of each competitor shall be prepared. This Provisional Results list shall be published as unofficial information awaiting the finalisation of the Official Results list, and team managers and/or competitors may make unofficial comments. It is recommended that Provisional Results be projected on screens during all rounds of a competition.

12.6.8 After the Provisional Results list has been checked, amended if necessary, and officially approved in

           writing by the WCC Judge, the Official Results list shall be published.

12.6.9 At the end of a competition, a consolidated Official Results list showing the final ranking of all

competitors, as well as their results in all rounds of the competition, shall be prepared, signed by the WCC Judge and the Jury President, and published.

12.6.10 All Official Results lists shall be prepared in a format as stipulated by the WCC, published on the

official competition notice board, and copies made available to members of the competition jury, team managers, the competition speaker and media representatives.

 

12.7 NATIONAL RANKINGS

Event Rankings

12.7.1 The ranking of:

a) Each competitor participating in each of the Boulder, Lead and Speed events; and

b) Each team participating in any Team Speed event,

shall be calculated as set out in the relevant Section of Part 2 to these Rules.

Overall Ranking

12.7.2 Each competitor participating in all three individual events shall be awarded an “Overall Ranking”. At

the end of the National competition, competitors participating in all three individual events shall be awarded the following Overall Ranking Points for each individual event, based on their ranking relative to other competitors also competing in all three individual events:

Rank      Points    Rank      Points    Rank      Points

1st                  100         11th              31           21st              10

2nd                 80           12th              28           22nd             9

3rd                 65           13th              26           23rd              8

4th                  55           14th              24           24th              7

5th                  51           15th              22           25th              6

6th                  47           16th              20           26th              5

7th                  43           17th              18           27th              4

8th                  40           18th              16           28th              3

9th                  37           19th              14           29th              2

10th              34           20th              12           30th              1

          Note: The Overall Ranking Points gained by tied competitors will be the average of the points for the

          tied rank positions. The points will be rounded off to whole numbers.

           Example: At the 2011 National competition, Competitor S was ranked 41st in the individual Speed

           event when counting all competitors, but 11th when counting only those competitors participating in

           all three events. For the Overall Ranking, Competitor S would be awarded 31 points (corresponding

           to 11th place) for the Speed event.

12.7.3 A provisional Overall Ranking will be published following the completion of each individual event

           based on the results of competitors entered for all three individual events.

12.7.4 At the end of each National Competition, the official Overall Ranking shall be calculated by adding the

Overall Ranking Points awarded to the competitor for each individual event, ranking competitors in descending order of the total number of points accumulated. Competitors entered for but who do not compete in all three individual events will be removed from the official Overall Ranking.

National Team Ranking

12.7.5 Following the completion of the Final round of each individual event in the National Competition, the

first thirty competitors in each Category shall be awarded the following Ranking Points for the purpose of calculating the “National Team Ranking:”

Rank      Points    Rank      Points    Rank      Points

1st                  100         11th              31           21st              10

2nd                 80           12th              28           22nd             9

3rd                 65           13th              26           23rd              8

4th                  55           14th              24           24th              7

5th                  51           15th              22           25th              6

6th                  47           16th              20           26th              5

7th                  43           17th              18           27th              4

8th                  40           18th              16           28th              3

9th                  37           19th              14           29th              2

10th              34           20th              12           30th              1

            Note: The Ranking Points gained by tied competitors will be the average of the points for the tied

            rank positions. The points will be rounded off to whole numbers.

12.7.6 At the end of the National Competition, the National Team Ranking shall be calculated by adding the

Ranking Points of the three (3) highest ranked team members in each Category for each individual event, ranking teams in descending order of the total number of Ranking Points accumulated.

 

12.8 MEDALS AND PRIZES

12.8.1 At the end of the National Competition:

a) Gold/Silver/Bronze medals shall be awarded to the competitors respectively ranked 1st, 2nd and 3rd in each Category for each Individual event, i.e. Boulder, Lead, Speed

b) Gold/Silver/Bronze medals shall be awarded to the teams respectively ranked 1st, 2nd and 3rd in each Category for any Team Speed event held.

c) Gold/Silver/Bronze medals shall be awarded to the competitors respectively ranked 1st, 2nd and 3rd in each Category in the Overall Ranking.

          Note: In the event of tied places, multiple medals will be awarded

d) A National Competition trophy shall be awarded to the winner within each Category for each individual event.

e) An Overall National Competition trophy shall be awarded to the winner within each Category of the Overall Ranking.

f) A presentation shall be made for the teams ranked 1st, 2nd and 3rd in the Overall Team Ranking

g) Prize money shall be awarded to each competitor ranked 6th or above in each Category for each individual event, i.e. Boulder, Lead, Speed.

12.8.2 The WCC Management Committee establishes the minimum amount of prizes for each season. The

list of prizes is established by the WCC Board in consultation with the Organising Committee when exceeding this minimum.

 

12.9 CEREMONIES

12.9.1 The award ceremony at the end of a competition, which shall be organised immediately after the

           conclusion of the final rounds, shall comply with the protocol for such ceremonies.

12.9.3 Unless specifically authorised by the Jury President, the top three (3) finalists in each Category shall

attend the award ceremony. Failure to observe this rule shall make a competitor liable to disciplinary action in accordance with Section 4 (Disciplinary Procedures).

 

12.10 ANTI-DOPING TESTS

12.10.1 The member club/organiser shall arrange for anti-doping tests to be carried out in compliance with

the national regulations governing international sport in their country, the World Anti-Doping Code, and the WCC Anti-Doping Policy and Procedure and Disciplinary Rules.

12.10.2 Anti-doping tests shall be administered as a minimum to the following persons as required or

             requested:

a) The winners in each Category of each individual event;

b) The winners in each Category of any Team Speed event; and

c) Any competitor setting a new World Record in Speed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13. NATIONAL YOUTH COMPETITIONS

 

13.1 INTRODUCTION

13.1.1 In accordance with the WCC Statutes, a National Youth competition shall be organised every year.

13.1.2 Each National Youth competition approved by the WCC shall include both Male and Female

Categories and shall include Lead, Bouldering and Speed Disciplines. Unless the WCC has specified an alternative format, the format of the competition shall be as defined in the relevant Section of Part 2 to these Rules.

13.1.3 National Youth competitions shall normally take place during weekend periods. The maximum

duration of a National Youth competition shall be four (5) days. Special consideration shall be given to determining the dates of such competitions in order to minimise problems associated with attendance at educational institutions.

 

13.2 ELIGIBILITY

13.2.1 Only competitors who hold a valid SANCF and WCC Membership Card shall be eligible to compete in

           a National Youth competition.

13.2.2 The National Youth competition shall include the following Age Groups:

a) Youth B: competitors eligible to register for this Age Group shall have been born either 14 or 15 calendar years before the year of the competition, e.g. those competing in the National Youth competition in 2012 shall have been born in either 1997 or 1998

b) Youth A: competitors eligible to register for this Age Group shall have been born either 16 or 17 calendar years before the year of the competition, e.g. those competing in the National Youth competition in 2012 shall have been born in either 1995 or 1996.

c) Juniors: competitors eligible to register for this Age Group shall have been born either 18 or 19 calendar years before the year of the competition, e.g. those competing in the National Youth competition in 2012 shall have been born in either 1993 or 1994.

Year of event       Youth B (Birth Years)        Youth A (Birth Years)        Juniors (Birth Years)

2012                       1998       1997                       1996 1995                            1994 1993

2013                       1999       1998                       1997 1996                            1995 1994

2014                       2000       1999                       1998 1997                            1996 1995

2015                       2001       2000                       1999 1998                            1997 1996

2016                       2002       2001                       2000 1999                            1998 1997

National Youth Competitions Age Groups

 

13.3 FORMAT

13.3.1 The format of each event in a National Youth competition shall be as set out in the relevant Section of

            Part 2 to these Rules as modified by the following articles:

13.3.2 In the Speed event, each stage of the final round (e.g. quarter final, semi final) shall be completed for

           all Age Groups and Categories before the start of the next stage.

 

13.4 REGISTRATION OF COMPETITORS

13.4.1 Member clubs may register up to a maximum of five (5) team officials who shall be granted free entry

into the competition venue. These officials shall be named on the official WCC registration form and specifically nominated for one of the following roles:

a) One (1) team manager;

b) Two (2) team coaches;

c) Two (2) qualified medical or para-medical personnel.

13.4.2 Subject to Articles 13.2.1 and 13.2.2, member clubs may register on the official WCC registration

           form a National Team comprising (where applicable):

a) Any current Youth Provincial/National Champion (who shall be registered for the Discipline in which they are champion); and

b) In addition to (a), a further four (4) competitors for each Category in each Age Group and Discipline of the competition.

13.4.3 The presence of all persons registered pursuant to Articles 13.4.1 and 13.4.2 must be confirmed:

a) By the attendance of at least one team official or competitor at the competition venue at the hour specified on the information sheet provided by the Organiser; or

b) By SMS to the WCC Delegate and/or the Jury President, not later than the time specified on the information sheet provided by the Organiser, only where exceptional circumstances such as strikes, traffic delay, etc. prevent attendance in person.

            Note: Depending on the schedule of the competition, supplementary Registration Meetings may be

           held for events commencing after the first day of the competition.

13.4.4 Registered competitors not confirmed as present in accordance with Article 13.4.3 will be deleted

           from the Official Starting List.

 

13.5 TECHNICAL MEETING(S)

13.5.1 A Technical Meeting shall be held prior to the commencement of the competition. The purpose of the

           Technical Meeting is to:

a) Confirm the event schedule (and any changes from the information on the WCC website);

b) Hand out the Official Starting List for the Qualification round of each event;

c) Identify any specific information related to the application of these Rules in the competition;

d) Communicate any logistics information not available from the WCC website.

          Note: Depending on the schedule of the competition, separate Technical Meetings may be held for

          each event.

 

13.6 PUBLICATION OF STARTLISTS AND RESULTS

Publication of Start Lists

13.6.1 A list of competitors entered for each event in the National Youth competitions shall be published by

          the WCC at least four (4) days prior to the competition.

13.6.2 The starting order of competitors in each event in the National Youth competitions shall be calculated

            as set out in the relevant Section of Part 2 to these Rules.

13.6.3 Official Starting Lists for each Category and Age Group shall be prepared:

a) For the Qualification round, at the Technical Meeting preceding the relevant event and following the registration confirmation deadline per Article 13.4.3 above.

b) For each other round, following publication of the Official Results of the preceding round and following the conclusion of any appeals procedures,

and in each case published on the WCC website, the official competition notice board and in the Isolation Zone/Warm-Up area; and copies made available to members of the competition jury, Team Managers, the competition speaker and media representatives.

13.6.4 Starting lists shall provide the following information:

a) The relevant Category, Age Group and round;

b) The starting order;

c) The name and club of each competitor;

d) The National Ranking of each competitor, when relevant;

e) The opening and closing time of the Isolation Zone, when relevant (or if not relevant, the closing time for registration in the round);

f) The time of observation or demonstration, and start of the round, when relevant;

g) Any other information approved by the WCC or the Jury President.

13.6.5 If a competitor fails to report either:

a) For registration in a round/to the Isolation Zone, prior to the published closing time; or

b) To the Call Zone when called,

then that competitor shall be deleted from the Official Startling List for the round. The order of the remaining competitors and their allocation to Starting Groups (when relevant) shall remain unchanged.

Publication of Results

13.6.6 The results and rankings for competitors in each event of the National Youth competition shall be

           calculated as set out in Article 13.7.

13.6.7 At the end of each round of the competition, a Provisional Results list showing the result and ranking

of each competitor shall be prepared. This Provisional Results list shall be published as unofficial information awaiting the finalisation of the Official Results list, and team managers and/or competitors may make unofficial comments. It is recommended that Provisional Results be projected on screens during all rounds of a competition.

13.6.8 After the Provisional Results list has been checked, amended if necessary, and officially approved in

           writing by the WCC Judge, the Official Results list shall be published.

13.6.9 At the end of a competition, a consolidated Official Results list showing the final ranking of all

competitors, as well as their results in all rounds of the competition, shall be prepared, signed by the WCC Judge and the Jury President, and published.

13.6.10 All Official Results lists shall be prepared in a format as stipulated by the WCC, published on the

official competition notice board, and copies made available to members of the competition jury, team managers, the competition speaker and media representatives.

 

13.7 NATIONAL YOUTH COMPETITION RANKINGS

Event Rankings

13.7.1 The ranking of each competitor participating in each of the Lead, Boulder and Speed events shall be

           calculated as set out in the relevant Section of Part 2 to these Rules.

National Team Ranking

13.7.2 Following the completion of the Final round of each individual event in the National Youth

competition, the first thirty competitors in each Age Group and Category shall be awarded the following Ranking Points for the purpose of calculating the “National Team Ranking”:

Rank      Points    Rank      Points    Rank      Points

1st                  100         11th              31           21st              10

2nd                 80           12th              28           22nd             9

3rd                 65           13th              26           23rd              8

4th                  55           14th              24           24th              7

5th                  51           15th              22           25th              6

6th                  47           16th              20           26th              5

7th                  43           17th              18           27th              4

8th                  40           18th              16           28th              3

9th                  37           19th              14           29th              2

10th              34           10th              12           30th              1

           Note: The Ranking Points gained by tied competitors will be the average of the points for the tied rank

           positions. The points will be rounded off to whole numbers.

13.7.3 At the end of the National Youth competition, the National Team Ranking shall be calculated by

adding the Ranking Points of the three (3) highest ranked individual team members in each Age Group andCategory for each Discipline, ranking teams in descending order of the total number of Ranking Points accumulated.

 

13.8 MEDALS AND PRIZES

13.8.1 At the end of the National Youth Competition:

a) Gold/Silver/Bronze medals shall be awarded to the competitors respectively ranked 1st, 2nd and 3rd in each Category and Age Group for each Individual event, i.e. Lead, Bouldering and Speed

          Note: In the event of tied places, multiple medals will be awarded

b) A National Youth competition trophy shall be awarded to the winner within each Category and Age Group for each individual event.

c) A presentation shall be made for the teams ranked 1st, 2nd and 3rd in the Overall Team Ranking

 

13.9 CEREMONIES

13.9.1 The award ceremony at the end of a competition, which shall be organised immediately after the

           conclusion of the final rounds, shall comply with the protocol for such ceremonies.

13.9.2 Unless specifically authorised by the Jury President, the top three (3) finalists in each Age Group and

Category shall attend the award ceremony. Failure to observe this rule shall make a competitor liable to disciplinary action in accordance with Section 4 (Disciplinary Procedures)

 

13.10 ANTI-DOPING TESTS

13.10.1 The member club/organiser shall arrange for anti-doping tests to be carried out in compliance with

the national regulations governing international sport in their country, the World Anti-Doping Code, and the WCC Anti-Doping Policy and Procedure and Disciplinary Rules.

13.10.2 Anti-doping tests shall be administered as a minimum to the winners in each Category and Age

             Group for each Discipline as required or requested.